Scala Contarini del Bovolo

Tucked into a tiny courtyard off a lane between Campo Manin and Campo San Luca, the Scala Contarini del Bovolo is one of those Venetian surprises that make wandering worthwhile. Bovolo means snail shell in Venetian dialect, and the name describes it perfectly: a slender cylindrical tower, built at the end of the fifteenth century for the Contarini family, wrapped by an external spiral staircase of white Istrian stone arches that climb in a continuous curve. Combining late Gothic and early Renaissance forms with Byzantine echoes, it was a status symbol as much as a practical staircase, connecting the floors of the palace behind while showing off the family's wealth and taste to anyone who found their way into the courtyard. Today the palace belongs to a historic Venetian charitable foundation, which restored the staircase and reopened it to visitors in the last decade. The visit is short and sweet. You climb the spiral, with views through the arches into the courtyard and across the rooftops growing as you rise, to a small circular belvedere at the top, where the panorama takes in the domes of St Mark's Basilica, the Campanile, the dome of the Salute and a sea of terracotta roofs, chimney pots and altane, the wooden roof terraces where Venetians dry laundry and take the evening air. Inside, a small room displays works from the foundation's collections. The courtyard itself, with its old well-heads and stone fragments, is a peaceful spot to pause after the crowds of the Mercerie.

Visiting: entry is by a modest ticket with a time slot, sold at the door and online, including through Tiqets; the visit lasts around half an hour. The staircase is narrow and has no lift, so it is not suitable for anyone with limited mobility, and on busy days a slot system manages numbers on the stairs. There are around eighty steps, an easy climb for most. Opening hours are daytime only and shorter in winter; check before you go, especially around holidays.

Why go: the Campanile offers the higher, grander view of Venice, but it involves queues, a lift and crowds. The Bovolo gives you a more intimate, rooftop-level panorama, in a quiet courtyard that most visitors walk straight past, for a lower price. It is also one of the most photogenic architectural details in the city, and the courtyard from below, looking up at the spiral, is as good as the view from the top. Photographers should come in the morning or late afternoon, when side light picks out the arches.

Pairing: the Bovolo is a few minutes from La Fenice and from Campo Santo Stefano, so it combines naturally with a theatre tour, or with a walk from San Marco to the Accademia Bridge. Combined tickets with La Fenice are sold through Tiqets. It is equally close to the Rialto via Campo San Luca, so it works as a rest stop on the classic walk between the two great landmarks. With children, the spiral climb and the rooftop view make it one of the most fun short visits in San Marco. Be honest with yourself about expectations: this is a single, beautiful architectural feature and a modest view rather than a museum, so it suits a gap in the day better than a special trip across town. Rainy or very windy days reduce the pleasure of the open belvedere, and in heavy rain the top can be slippery, so save it for a dry spell if you can.