Torcello

Long before Venice existed as a city, Torcello was the most important settlement in the lagoon. Refugees from the mainland settled here from the fifth and sixth centuries, and by the early Middle Ages the island had thousands of inhabitants, churches, palaces and a bishop. Then the lagoon around it silted up, the marshes brought malaria, trade moved to the Rialto islands, and Torcello slowly emptied, until today only a handful of people live here. What survives is magical: a quiet path along a canal, through fields and reed beds, leading to a grassy square with a cluster of extraordinary buildings. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, founded in the seventh century and rebuilt in the eleventh, is the oldest building in the lagoon, and its interior is the reason to come. The west wall is covered with a huge mosaic of the Last Judgement, a vivid, almost cinematic Byzantine vision of resurrection, weighing of souls and the torments of hell, while the gold apse holds a tall, slender Virgin and Child of extraordinary stillness, alone against a field of gold. The marble and mosaic floor, the carved screen and the ancient bishop's throne behind the altar complete one of the most moving church interiors in Italy. Next door, the church of Santa Fosca, from around 1100, is an elegant Greek-cross building wrapped in a porch on five sides. In the square, a rough stone chair known as Attila's Throne draws photos, and on the walk in you cross the Ponte del Diavolo, the Devil's Bridge, one of the few old Venetian bridges without a parapet. The cathedral's eleventh-century bell tower rises over the whole scene.

Getting there: Torcello is in the northern lagoon, beyond Murano and Burano. From the Fondamenta Nove in Cannaregio, vaporetto line 12 runs to Burano, and from Burano the short line 9 shuttle crosses to Torcello in a few minutes; some line 12 boats also call at Torcello. Allow about an hour each way from central Venice, plus waiting time, and check the last return boats, which are earlier in winter. A vaporetto travel pass covers the trip. There is no access fee issue here: the day-tripper access fee applies only to the historic centre, and in any case the scheme is paused until the end of 2026, with 2027 dates not yet announced.

Visiting the cathedral: entry is by a modest ticket, with combined options for the bell tower and the small Torcello Museum opposite when they are open. Opening hours are shorter in winter, and the museum keeps its own days, so check before you set out. Dress modestly, and give yourself time to sit with the Last Judgement, reading it from the top down. The walk from the boat landing to the square takes about ten minutes along the canal, past a couple of restaurants with gardens that make a lovely, if not cheap, lunch stop in good weather.

How to plan it: Torcello pairs naturally with Burano, five minutes away, and the best plan is to come here first in the morning, while it is silent, and then cross to Burano for lunch and colour. Murano can be added on the way out or back for a full islands day. Families find the open spaces and the throne fun; couples love the peace, especially in the late afternoon. Bring insect repellent in summer, as the marshes have mosquitoes.