Dorsoduro / near Piazzale Roma

Hotel Moresco

★★★★★

Hotel Moresco is the pick for travellers who want to live in a real Venetian neighbourhood and still sleep in a polished, comfortable hotel. It is a small boutique hotel in a historic building in western Dorsoduro, beside one of the quieter canals of the district, and it has something rare in the historic centre: its own garden, where breakfast is served in the warmer months among plants and the sound of the canal. Inside, the decor is Venetian and elegant, with fabrics, chandeliers and furnishings that nod to tradition without feeling heavy, and the rooms are comfortable and well equipped, with air conditioning, free Wi-Fi and modern bathrooms. There is a lift, which is far from guaranteed in Venice, and the reception is open around the clock. The location is one of its biggest assets. Piazzale Roma, where buses and taxis from the airport and the mainland arrive, is a short walk away, so you can reach the hotel without dragging suitcases across many bridges, and the railway station is a little further. In the other direction, the lanes lead to Campo Santa Margherita, the lively student square full of bars and cafés, the Frari with Titian's Assumption, the Scuola Grande di San Rocco with its Tintorettos, and Ca' Rezzonico on the Grand Canal. The Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim are a pleasant walk further on. Staff are known for their warmth and their good local advice, which helps you make the most of an area that most visitors only pass through.

Why stay in Dorsoduro: this is the sestiere of museums, students and long, sunny waterfronts. Evenings in Campo Santa Margherita and along the Zattere are relaxed and affordable, the bacari around San Pantalon and Santa Margherita serve locals more than tourists, and the district is generally quieter than San Marco and the Rialto. From the Moresco you can walk to the Rialto in about fifteen to twenty minutes, or take the vaporetto from San Tomà or Piazzale Roma along the Grand Canal.

Living in it: rooms vary in size and outlook, as in any historic building, with some overlooking the canal or the garden. Breakfast in the garden is one of the pleasures of a stay in spring, summer and early autumn. The hotel is small, so service is personal, and booking direct often brings the best rates and room choice. Ask the staff about the vaporetto pass and the best routes to the sights; they are used to helping first-timers find their way through the maze.

Who it suits: couples, culture-minded travellers and repeat visitors who prefer a neighbourhood stay to a grand hotel, and anyone arriving by road or air who wants to avoid hauling luggage across the city. It is an excellent base for the Frari, San Rocco, the Accademia and the Guggenheim, and good value compared with similar comfort around San Marco. Within about ten minutes on foot you can reach the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, the Frari and Ca' Rezzonico, which makes the Moresco one of the best-placed small hotels in the city for an art-focused trip, and Campo Santa Margherita's morning market stalls and evening bars are closer still.