Central Cemetery

The Viennese have a famously relaxed relationship with death, and the Zentralfriedhof is where you understand it best. Opened in 1874 on what was then the edge of the city in Simmering, it covers more than two square kilometres and holds around 330,000 graves, which makes it one of the largest cemeteries in Europe and something closer to a park than a graveyard: long avenues of trees, overgrown corners where nature has taken over, deer grazing between the headstones and a mix of grand family vaults, modest plots and separate sections for many faiths, including an old Jewish section of great historical importance. Most visitors come first for the musicians. In the graves of honour near the main gate lie Beethoven and Schubert, moved here from smaller cemeteries in the late nineteenth century, alongside Brahms, Johann Strauss father and son, Joseph Lanner, Hugo Wolf and others, grouped around a memorial to Mozart, whose actual grave is in the small St Marx Cemetery closer to the city. Further on, graves of honour mark writers, artists, architects and presidents, including Arthur Schnitzler and, beloved by fans of Austrian pop, Falco. At the heart of the cemetery rises the Church of St Charles Borromeo, a domed Art Nouveau church built in the early twentieth century and one of the most beautiful Jugendstil buildings in the city, with a restored interior of deep blue and gold. Near the main gate, the Funeral Museum tells the story of Vienna's elaborate funeral culture with around a thousand objects, from hearses to the famous reusable coffin of Joseph II's reforms. Entry to the cemetery is free, and it is open every day, with hours that follow the seasons, from early morning to evening in summer and until late afternoon in winter.

How to visit: enter by Gate 2, the main gate on Simmeringer Hauptstrasse, where the graves of honour and the church are closest. Tram 71, which runs from the Ring, and tram 11 both stop at the gates, and there is also a suburban rail station named for the cemetery. Pick up or download a map of the graves of honour, because the grounds are enormous and it is easy to walk for an hour without finding what you came for. Allow two hours for the musicians, the church and a stroll; longer if you want to explore the older Jewish section, which lies near Gate 1, or the quieter outer areas. Comfortable shoes are essential.

When to go: spring and autumn are the most beautiful seasons, with blossom or golden leaves and soft light, and a weekday morning gives you the paths almost to yourself. Around All Saints' Day at the start of November, Viennese families visit their graves in great numbers, candles burn everywhere and the atmosphere is unforgettable, though busier. In summer, shaded avenues make it a cool escape from the city. Be mindful that this is a working cemetery with funerals taking place, so keep your voice down and give mourners space.

Who it suits: music lovers on a pilgrimage to Beethoven and Schubert; history buffs; photographers and lovers of architecture, for the Art Nouveau church and the monuments; and couples looking for a peaceful, unusual half-day away from the crowds. If Mozart is your focus, combine the visit with the small St Marx Cemetery on the way back towards the centre, where his unmarked grave site is commemorated by a weeping-angel monument.