Lucerne Old Town / Weinmarkt

Hotel des Balances Lucerne

★★★★★

The Hotel des Balances occupies one of the most romantic positions in Lucerne: directly on the River Reuss on the edge of the Weinmarkt, the Old Town's most beautiful square, with its painted facades and fountain. The building has a long history, with origins going back to the medieval town, and it became a hotel in 1837, which makes it one of the oldest in the city. Today it is a four-star superior boutique hotel with 56 rooms and suites, renovated in a contemporary style that respects the old building, and its river-facing rooms look straight out over the Reuss to the Chapel Bridge, the Jesuit Church and, on clear days, Mount Pilatus. Room categories range from cosy queen and double rooms facing the Old Town to double and superior rooms on the Reuss, junior suites, suites and a romantic suite, so it is easy to choose the view and space you want. The restaurant, Restaurant Balances, is one of the most respected in the Old Town, with refined cooking awarded 14 points by Gault and Millau, and its riverside terrace is one of the loveliest places in Lucerne for lunch or dinner in summer, with the river flowing past and the bridges and towers of the Old Town all around. The bar and lounge are pleasant for an aperitif, and breakfast is served with views of the river. Practical comforts include air conditioning, free Wi-Fi, parking nearby with an electric charging point, and pets are welcome. Meeting rooms host concerts and banquets as well as business events. The Chapel Bridge, the Spreuer Bridge and the station are all a few minutes' walk away, and the boat piers for the lake cruises and the mountains are just across the river. Rates are upper mid-range by Lucerne standards, with a premium for river views and suites, and the hotel fills quickly in summer and during the music festivals.

Choosing your room: the river-facing categories are the reason to stay here, with the Reuss and the Old Town's towers outside the window; the Old Town rooms face the lanes and squares and are cheaper and quieter. The building's historic layout means room sizes vary, and some rooms are compact, but all are well appointed. Ask for a higher floor for the best views of the Chapel Bridge and Pilatus.

Eating and drinking: book a table on the terrace for a summer evening; it is one of Lucerne's great dining experiences, with fine cooking and a setting that few restaurants can match. In winter, the restaurant moves indoors, and the bar is a cosy spot for a drink. Breakfast with a view of the river sets you up for a day in the mountains. Non-residents fill the restaurant, so reserve ahead.

Location and who it suits: in the middle of the car-free Old Town, the hotel is ideal for couples on a romantic break, first-time visitors who want to step straight into the old streets and travellers who want a characterful boutique hotel rather than a grand lakeside house. Arriving by car requires using nearby parking, and luggage can be brought from the station by taxi to the edge of the Old Town. For mountain days, the boat piers in front of the station, a short walk across the river, are the gateway to Rigi and Pilatus.