Lucerne Lakefront / Schweizerhofquai

Hotel Schweizerhof Luzern

★★★★★

The Hotel Schweizerhof has stood on the Schweizerhofquai, Lucerne's lakefront promenade, since 1845, and it is one of the great hotels of Switzerland, the place where the golden age of Swiss tourism can still be felt. The Hauser family has run it for generations, and their history is the hotel's history: a long line of famous guests have stayed here, among them Mark Twain, Leo Tolstoy, who set a story in the hotel, Richard Wagner, who finished part of an opera while in residence, and, more recently, film stars and musicians. The grand facade faces the lake, with views across the water to the Rigi, the Buergenstock and Pilatus, and the Chapel Bridge, the Old Town and the station are all within a five-minute walk, so the location is perfect for both sightseeing and the lake boats to the mountains. The hotel has 101 historic rooms and suites, renovated with care to combine period features, high ceilings and stucco with modern comfort; many rooms tell the stories of the hotel's famous guests through their decoration, and the lake-view rooms and suites are among the most sought after in Lucerne. The restaurants offer something for every mood. Brasserie VICO is the relaxed all-day brasserie, the Schweizerhof Bar is a classic hotel bar for an aperitif or a nightcap, and VILLA Schweizerhof, on the lakefront, is a separate restaurant with a terrace overlooking the water. A wellness area offers massages and fitness and sauna facilities. The hotel is a host and partner of many of the city's events, from Lucerne Carnival to music festivals, and in December its own Christmas market is part of the city's festive programme. Rates are high, especially in summer and during the music festivals, but for a first visit to Lucerne in grand style it is hard to beat.

Choosing your room: ask for a lake view; it is worth the premium, especially at sunset when the light falls on Pilatus and the lake. Rooms on the town side are quieter and less expensive. The hotel's historic character is part of the experience, with grand public rooms, a sweeping staircase and a festive atmosphere in winter. Service is warm and professional, with a family-run feel despite the size.

Eating and drinking: VILLA Schweizerhof is the place for a lakeside lunch or dinner, with Swiss and seasonal cooking and one of the best terraces in Lucerne. Brasserie VICO offers a more casual menu, and the bar is a meeting point for locals and guests. Breakfast is served with views of the lake. Booking ahead is recommended for the restaurants in summer and during events.

Location and who it suits: on the Schweizerhofquai, the hotel is ideal for travellers who want to walk to the Old Town, the Chapel Bridge, the KKL concert hall and the boat piers for Vitznau and Alpnachstad, the starting points for Rigi and Pilatus. It suits couples, families looking for space and travellers celebrating a special occasion. For a smaller, more intimate stay in the Old Town, the Hotel des Balances or the Hotel Wilden Mann are alternatives, but for a lakeside grand hotel with history, the Schweizerhof is the classic Lucerne choice.