Siglufjörður

Siglufjörður is Iceland's northernmost town, and it feels like the end of the road in the best sense. It sits at the foot of steep mountains on a narrow fjord on the Tröllaskagi peninsula, a bright huddle of painted houses, a small harbour and a long, snowy winter. In the first half of the twentieth century it was the centre of a herring boom so large that the town swelled with thousands of seasonal workers and was sometimes called the herring capital of the world. When the herring vanished from Icelandic waters in the 1960s, the boom ended, and the town fell quiet. Today that story is the main reason to visit. The Herring Era Museum, a set of restored harbourside buildings, brings the period to life with salting stations, a reconstructed workers' quarters, boats and film footage, and it is widely regarded as one of the best museums in the north. Around it the town has found new life with a boutique hotel, cafes, a ski area and a reputation among outdoor enthusiasts, so a day here combines history, scenery and a good coffee.

The journey is part of the experience. From Akureyri, the road runs north along the fjord through Dalvík and Ólafsfjörður, passing through several tunnels, and finally through a pair of long tunnels that opened in 2010 to link the fjords, turning what was once a remote cul-de-sac into an easy day trip. Beyond the final tunnel the mountains close in, and the approach to Siglufjörður along the water is among the prettiest drives in Iceland. Allow about an hour and a half each way, and stop at viewpoints on the way.

In town, start at the museum, which usually takes an hour or two, then wander the harbour and the main street, with its small shops and the local cafe scene. Nearby you can find a folk music centre, a lively summer festival culture and trails that climb into the surrounding mountains. In summer, boat trips run from the harbour for whale and puffin watching, and hikers can try the avalanche-barrier trails above town, which give wide views over the fjord. In winter, the ski area and snowshoe walks draw visitors who enjoy cold, quiet landscapes.

Tours from Akureyri combine the village with the coastal scenery, a stop at the museum and often a local lunch. A guided day takes the driving off your hands and allows you to see the Arctic coast in comfort, and small-group trips mean you can ask the guide about the herring story. If you drive yourself, check the weather forecast and road conditions, since winter storms can close the mountain roads, and carry water and snacks. The town has a few good places to eat, and fresh fish is a speciality.

Timing suits many seasons. Summer brings long days, open museum hours and the busiest harbour, while winter brings dramatic snow, blue light and a feeling of remoteness. Spring and autumn are quiet, with some services reduced. Whenever you go, wear layers and sturdy shoes, because the wind off the sea can be sharp. For travellers who like their Iceland with a story, a bit of solitude and fewer crowds, Siglufjörður is one of the most rewarding excursions from Akureyri.