Amritsar is one of the great food cities of India, and eating well is as much a reason to visit as the Golden Temple. Punjabi cooking is generous and unfussy, built on fresh dairy, wheat breads, lentils and spice, and the city's cooks take pride in doing a small number of things extremely well. This guide covers the dishes to try, the best ways to taste them and a few tips for eating safely.
Amritsari kulcha
The signature dish of the city is a stuffed flatbread, cooked in a tandoor until crisp and flaky, filled with spiced potato, onion or paneer and served hot with chickpea curry, chutney and often a pat of butter. Famous kulcha spots in the old city, such as Kulwant Singh Kulchan waale and Prem Nath Kulche Wale, draw queues in the morning. Order one or two to share, since they are filling, and eat them while hot.
Chole bhature and breakfast
Another classic is chole bhature, spicy chickpeas with puffy fried bread, usually eaten for breakfast or brunch. Paired with lassi or a glass of sweet milk tea, it sets you up for a long morning of sightseeing. If you prefer lighter fare, look for parathas stuffed with paneer, cauliflower or radish, served with curd and pickle.
Lassi
Punjabi lassi is thick, creamy and often served in a tall steel glass with a slab of malai on top. Sweet versions are most common, and some places offer salted or flavoured varieties. A glass is a meal in itself, so take it slowly and avoid it just before a long drive.
Fried fish and meat
Amritsari fish, battered in spiced gram flour and deep fried, is another local speciality and is often served with mint chutney and lemon. Tandoori chicken, kebabs and dishes of mutton are available at many restaurants, though a lot of the city's food is vegetarian, reflecting the influence of Sikh and Hindu traditions. Vegetarians will eat extremely well.
Langar at the Golden Temple
The community kitchen serves free vegetarian meals to anyone, any time, and eating there is an experience as much as a meal. You will sit on the floor in rows, receive a steel plate and be served dal, vegetables, flatbread and a sweet dish. Follow the etiquette, cover your head, eat what you take and leave the plate at the washing station. It is simple, filling and memorable.
Sweets and snacks
Save space for jalebis, kulfi, falooda and the sweet shops that surround the temple. Papad and wadiyan, the sun-dried lentil nuggets, make a good edible souvenir, along with spices and dried fruits. Street food such as aloo tikki, golgappa and fruit chaat is widely available.
Guided options
A food walk is the easiest way to taste a lot in a short time, guided by a local who knows the best places, and the Amritsar food walk is designed for exactly that. A cooking class, such as the private farm-fresh Punjabi class, teaches you to make dals, breads and vegetable dishes. Pairing a food walk early in your stay with a class later gives you both the tasting and the technique.
Eating safely
Choose busy places with a high turnover, where food is cooked fresh and served hot. Drink sealed or filtered water and be cautious with ice and raw salads if your stomach is sensitive. Wash your hands before eating, and carry hand wipes. If you have allergies or dietary requirements, tell your hosts or guides in advance, as ghee and butter are used liberally and nuts appear in many sweets.
Seasonal specials
In winter, look for makki di roti with sarson da saag, a classic pairing of cornbread and mustard greens, along with gajar halwa and hot jalebis. Summer brings cool lassi, kulfi and fresh sugarcane juice. Festival times, such as Baisakhi and Diwali, bring extra sweets and special dishes.
A suggested food day
Start with kulchas and chole for breakfast, a glass of lassi mid-morning, langar for lunch, fish and tikkis in the afternoon and a plate of kulfi after dinner. Rest between meals, drink water and walk between stops to keep your appetite. Eat like a local and you will leave the city with a long list of favourites.
Where to start
If you are unsure where to begin, ask your hotel for the nearest popular kulcha place and walk there for breakfast, then follow the crowds. Locals queue for the places they trust, and a short line at a busy counter is usually a good sign.