Plaza de Armas

Every Peruvian city has a Plaza de Armas, but the Arequipa version is the most beautiful of them. Three sides are lined with two-storey arcades of pale sillar, the volcanic stone that gives the city its nickname of the White City, and the fourth side is taken up by the cathedral, whose long facade and twin towers dominate the square. Palm trees and a central fountain soften the stone, and on a clear day the cone of Misti sits above the roofline as if it had been placed there by a designer. The plaza is where the city meets: families, office workers, shoe-shiners, tour guides, and visitors drinking coffee under the arches all share the same space from morning until late at night.

The cathedral deserves time of its own. The building as seen today dates mainly from the nineteenth century, after earlier churches on the site were damaged by earthquakes and fire, and its length across the north side of the plaza is unusual in Peru. Inside you find a vast nave, a carved pulpit, and an organ that is commonly described as among the largest in South America.

A guided visit includes the rooftop terrace, from which you can look down over the plaza and across the domes and towers of the old centre to the volcano. Entry is paid and visits are timed, so check the schedule when you arrive or book a tour that includes it.

Next to the cathedral is the Church of La Compania de Jesus, one of the finest examples of the mestizo baroque style that blends European forms with Andean carving. The facade is covered in intricate stone figures of flowers, masks, birds and mythical creatures, and the interior is a mass of gilded altarpieces. A short walk away, the cloisters of the same complex have been converted into shops and cafes in a pleasant courtyard, and the arcades around the plaza are packed with restaurants, many with upstairs terraces.

These rooftop tables are the classic spot for a late afternoon drink, with the lights coming on over the stone as the volcano turns pink.

As a place to stand and absorb the city, the plaza works at any hour. Early morning is quiet and golden, midday is busy with school groups and tours, and evenings are lively with street performers and families. Because it is the centre of the old town, it is also the natural starting point for walking tours and the easiest place to meet a guide.

Keep valuables close in the crowds, as in any busy city plaza. The square is free to enter, and the tourism board pages are a handy starting point for plans, while the walking tour linked in the next attraction covers it in context.

If you want to understand how the square fits the city, take the loop on foot: walk the full arcade on each side, step into the side streets to see the carved stone doorways, and note how the sillar changes colour through the day from cream to pink to gold. Street vendors sell sweets and snacks around the edges, and the benches under the palms are an excellent spot for a rest if the altitude is making stairs feel steeper than usual. Evening brings music, families and a gentle energy that lasts well past dark.