The Swag

The Swag is the mountain-inn splurge of western North Carolina: a Relais and Chateaux retreat on a 250-acre mountaintop above Waynesville, about 40 minutes west of Asheville, at around 5,000 feet, with land that borders Great Smoky Mountains National Park. It began as a private residence and has welcomed guests since 1982 — a cluster of lodges and cabins built from reclaimed timber, with just fourteen guest rooms, so the atmosphere is closer to a house party than a hotel. The format is inclusive: all three meals for two are part of the rate, with a dining room known for farm-forward Southern cooking and its picnic lunches, and the days revolve around the mountain itself — trails lead from the property directly into the national park, and the views across ridge after ridge of the Smokies are the décor. Rooms are rustic-luxurious and individually styled, and recent renovations refreshed the living room, dining room and several guest rooms, with plans for expanded outdoor dining. It is a place to unplug: the drive up is steep and winding, the pace is slow, and the evenings are for stars and conversation. Honest notes: it is seasonal, closing for winter after Thanksgiving, so book well ahead for fall; it is expensive (though meals are included); reservations are required even to dine; and it is a destination stay rather than a base for exploring Asheville. Fit: couples above all — anniversaries, honeymoons, milestone birthdays — and outdoors travelers who want trails into the Smokies from the door.

The Swag has collected national accolades over the years for its setting and hospitality, and it joined Relais and Chateaux in 2020. Current owners bought it in 2018 and have been steadily updating the property while preserving its handmade, mountain-lodge character.