Ulun Danu Beratan Lake Temple

In the cool central highlands of Bali, around Bedugul, an ancient volcanic crater holds Lake Beratan, and on its western shore stands one of the most graceful temples on the island. Pura Ulun Danu Beratan was founded in 1634 by a ruler of the Mengwi kingdom, according to the court chronicles, and it is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of the lake and of water, revered as the source of fertility for the farmland below. Because the lake feeds the rivers and springs that irrigate the rice terraces of the south and west, the temple is central to the subak system and part of the UNESCO-listed cultural landscape of Bali. Its most famous shrines stand on small islets just off the shore, their tall meru towers with stacked thatched roofs reflected in the water; when the lake is high they appear to float, and on misty mornings, with the forested crater walls behind, they look like something from a dream. The complex includes several temple courtyards dedicated to different deities and, unusually, a Buddhist stupa, a sign of the island's long religious tolerance. As at all Balinese temples, visitors admire the shrines from the gardens and lakeshore rather than entering the inner sanctums, and ceremonies are frequent, so you may see processions bringing offerings by boat. The setting is the other draw. At over a thousand metres above sea level, Bedugul is several degrees cooler than the coast, with pine and fern-clad hills, strawberry farms and vegetable plots, and the gardens around the temple are immaculately kept and full of flowers. It is a popular stop for Balinese and Indonesian families, so weekends and holidays can be busy, but mornings are peaceful.

Visiting: there is a modest entry fee for foreign visitors, paid at the ticket office, with sarongs available; the grounds open from early morning. The best light and the best chance of mist on the water come early in the day, before tour groups arrive from the south, and before the afternoon cloud and rain that often settle over the highlands, especially in the wet season. Bring a light jacket: it can be surprisingly cool. Allow an hour or so for the temple and gardens. Boat rides on the lake are offered, and a lakeside walk gives you different angles on the meru towers.

Nearby: the bustling Candikuning market just up the road sells fruit, spices, flowers and snacks, and the Bali Botanic Garden spreads across the hillside above the lake. Further north, the twin lakes of Buyan and Tamblingan and the mountain village of Munduk, with its waterfalls and coffee, reward an overnight stay. Many visitors combine the temple with Jatiluwih on a day trip, returning to the coast via Tanah Lot for sunset.

Getting there: Bedugul is about an hour and a half from Ubud and two hours from Seminyak or Canggu by car, on roads that climb through farmland and forest. Hire a driver for the day, as public transport is limited. Respect the temple rules: dress modestly, do not climb on walls or shrines, keep clear of worshippers during ceremonies and never step on offerings.