Ubud (Central, Jalan Hanoman)

Alaya Resort Ubud

★★★★★

Most of Ubud's famous hotels sit in the river valleys outside town, beautiful but dependent on shuttles and drivers. Alaya Resort Ubud takes the opposite approach: it is right in the middle of things, on Jalan Hanoman, one of the town's liveliest streets, lined with galleries, boutiques, cafes and spas, and within walking distance of the Sacred Monkey Forest, the royal palace, the art market and the evening dance performances. That makes it an excellent base for first-timers who want to spend their evenings wandering, eating and watching Legong or Barong dancing without negotiating taxis. Behind the street front, the resort opens into gardens with paths, water features and contemporary Balinese architecture in wood, stone and natural textures, so it feels calmer than its address suggests. There are 106 rooms and suites, ranging from deluxe rooms to suites and villas, decorated in a warm, modern style with local craftsmanship. Facilities are those of a full resort rather than a boutique guesthouse: a swimming pool with the Bamboo Pool Bar for drinks and light meals, the Brasserie for all-day dining, in-room dining, and the award-winning DaLa Spa for Balinese massage and treatments after a day of temples and terraces. The Alaya group also runs Alaya Grounds, a dining and lifestyle space nearby. Rates are typically mid-range by Ubud standards, offering a lot of hotel for the price, especially outside the peak months of July, August and the Christmas holidays. The trade-off for being central is some street noise and the general busyness of Ubud during the day, but at night the gardens are quiet.

Choosing a room: standard rooms are comfortable and well designed; suites and villas give more space and privacy and are worth considering for longer stays or families. Ask for a room away from the street side if you are a light sleeper, and check whether your rate includes breakfast, which is a good way to start early sightseeing days.

Who it suits: couples and families who want to explore Ubud on foot, travellers on their first trip to Bali who want comfort without the price of a river-valley resort, and anyone using Ubud as a base for day trips to Tegallalang, Tirta Empul, Batur and the east. It is less suited to those seeking total seclusion or dramatic jungle views.

Practical notes: Ubud is about an hour or more from the airport depending on traffic, and the hotel can arrange transfers. Day trips are easy to book through the front desk with a private driver. In the wet season, central Ubud remains lively, and having restaurants, spas and cafes within a short walk is a real advantage on rainy afternoons. Remember the Bali tourist levy, paid once per person, which hotels may ask to see.