Amed (Jemeluk Beach)

Amed Lodge by Sudamala Resorts

★★★★★

Amed is the name given to a long stretch of fishing villages on Bali's far east coast, where black-sand and pebble coves look out over calm water to Lombok, colourful jukung outrigger boats line the beaches, and Mount Agung rises behind. It is the opposite of the busy south: no big resorts, no traffic jams, just small hotels, dive centres and warungs strung along a coast road. Amed Lodge by Sudamala Resorts captures that mood. It is a small beachfront retreat of seven renovated cottages on Jemeluk Beach, the area's best-known bay, with views over the sea and towards Mount Agung. Sudamala Resorts, which runs boutique properties in Bali and beyond, has kept the lodge intimate, so it feels more like staying in a stylish guesthouse than a hotel. The draw here is the water. Jemeluk Bay has coral gardens and reef fish close to shore, making it one of the easiest snorkelling spots in Bali, and the lodge is close to eateries and dive centres, so you can arrange dives, courses and gear hire within minutes. The famous USAT Liberty wreck at Tulamben is about twenty to thirty minutes north by road, and a small Japanese shipwreck off Banyuning, just along the coast, is another easy snorkel. Beyond the sea, the Jemeluk viewpoint on the headland is a classic sunset spot, and the lodge makes a good base for Lempuyang Temple, Tirta Gangga and the Taman Ujung water palace, which are all within an hour. Amed is about ninety-five kilometres from the airport, a drive of around two and a half to three hours, so it is a destination for a few nights rather than a day.

Choosing a cottage: with only seven units, availability is tight, and it is worth booking well ahead in the dry season. Ask for a cottage with the clearest sea view, and check whether breakfast and transfers are included in your rate. Facilities are simpler than at a full resort, so do not expect a big pool, a spa or a kids club.

Who it suits: couples, snorkellers and divers, and travellers who want to see a quieter, more traditional side of Bali. It is less suited to families who need entertainment for children, travellers who want nightlife, or anyone visiting for just one night, as the drive is long.

Practical notes: Amed's beaches are pebbly or black sand, so bring water shoes. The sea is generally calm in the mornings, with the best visibility in the dry season, roughly April to November. ATMs and shops are limited, so carry some cash. Mount Agung is an active volcano; check current alerts before travelling. Compared with the busier east-coast towns such as Candidasa, Amed is more remote and more relaxed.