Ubud (Ayung River valley)

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

★★★★★

Mandapa is the hotel for travellers who want Ubud's landscape and culture wrapped in the highest level of service on the island. It sits in a bend of the Ayung River, Bali's longest, a short drive west of central Ubud, on a site that drops steeply from the road through jungle to the riverbank, with working rice paddies laid out on the terraces between. The resort is one of only a handful of properties worldwide in the Ritz-Carlton Reserve collection, the brand's most exclusive tier, and it feels more like a Balinese village than a hotel: thatched pavilions, stone pathways, temple-style gateways and lush gardens. There are thirty-five suites and twenty-five private pool villas, the villas set into the hillside with their own pools looking over the jungle or the river. Each guest is looked after by a Patih, a personal butler who arranges everything from in-villa breakfasts to blessings, temple visits and drivers, a service level that suits honeymooners and families who want everything handled. Dining is a highlight. Kubu is a zero-waste restaurant that sources its ingredients from within one hundred kilometres, with intimate riverside pavilions; Sawah Terrace overlooks the river and serves heritage dishes from across the Indonesian archipelago, with Balinese dance performances on some evenings. The spa and wellness centre runs yoga in a river-facing pavilion or on platforms among the rice paddies, and guests can join guided walks through the fields with the farmers, learn about the subak, or take part in a temple blessing. Children are catered for with a dedicated recreation programme, Mandapa Camp, which introduces Balinese culture through activities.

Choosing a room: the suites are spacious and beautifully finished, with views over the jungle or paddies, and are the more affordable way in. The pool villas are the full fantasy, private and secluded, with the larger multi-bedroom villas suiting families or friends. River-view rooms are worth the premium if the sound of the water matters to you. Rates are among the highest in Bali, especially in the dry season and over Christmas and New Year.

Who it suits: couples on honeymoon or an anniversary, families who want cultural experiences built into their stay, and anyone who wants to be close to Ubud's temples, terraces and Batur sunrise trek without staying in the busy town. It is not walking distance to central Ubud, but the hotel runs transfers, and the seclusion is the point.

Practical notes: Mandapa is about an hour or more from the airport depending on traffic, and the hotel arranges transfers. The site is steep, with many steps between the road level and the river, though buggies help guests get around. In the wet season the valley is at its greenest, and afternoon rain on the thatch is part of the atmosphere; the river can run high and brown after storms. The Bali tourist levy is paid separately by each guest before or on arrival.