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Damnoen Saduak and Maeklong Markets

A train through a market and boats in the canals

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This combined trip is the most popular half day out of Bangkok, and it pairs two of the most photographed scenes in Thailand. The Maeklong Railway Market, in Samut Songkhram province about an hour and a half southwest of the city, is a working fresh market set right on the tracks of a local railway line. Vendors lay out fish, vegetables, fruit and spices on the rails, under awnings that stretch across the line; when a train approaches, a bell rings, the awnings are folded back, the goods on the ground are pulled clear by inches, and the train rolls slowly through the middle of the market, close enough to touch. Minutes later, everything is back in place. The train passes several times a day on a fixed timetable, and tours are timed to catch one. Damnoen Saduak, a short drive away in Ratchaburi province, is the most famous floating market in Thailand, a network of canals where vendors in wooden boats sell fruit, noodles, coconut pancakes and souvenirs, and visitors are paddled or motored along the waterways in long boats. It is worth being honest: Damnoen Saduak today is run mainly for tourists, and many of the stalls along the canal banks sell souvenirs rather than produce. But in the early morning, with the boats jostling and the food vendors cooking on board, it is still a vivid and enjoyable scene, and the boat ride through the quieter back canals, past stilt houses and coconut groves, is the best part. The easiest way to do both is a guided tour from Bangkok with hotel pickup, which handles the timing of the train, the boat ride and the logistics; most leave very early and return by early afternoon.

Start early. Damnoen Saduak is at its best from around 7am to 10am, before the tour buses peak and the heat builds, and most good tours leave Bangkok between 6am and 7am. The order of the day depends on the train timetable at Maeklong: tours are planned to arrive at the railway market a little before a scheduled train, so you have time to walk the market and pick a spot. Stand behind the vendors' line when the bell rings and keep your feet well back from the rails; the train moves slowly but leaves very little room. The railway timetable is occasionally changed for maintenance, and trains sometimes run late, so a guide who checks on the day is worth having.

At Damnoen Saduak, most tours include a long-boat ride through the canals; if you have the option, choose a paddle boat for part of the trip, which is slower and quieter. Prices in the market are higher than in Bangkok, and vendors in boats are persistent, so decide what you want and bargain politely. The food is the best reason to stop: boat noodles, grilled bananas, mango sticky rice and fresh coconut, cooked in front of you on the water. Some tours add a visit to a coconut sugar farm or the Amphawa floating market, a more local weekend-evening market a short drive from Maeklong, which is a good alternative if you prefer atmosphere to spectacle.

If you would rather avoid the crowds altogether, Bangkok has more local floating markets closer to the city, such as Khlong Lat Mayom and Taling Chan in Thonburi, which operate mainly on weekends and are popular with Thai families. But for the classic photographs and the railway spectacle, this combined trip is the one to do, and with an early start you will be back in Bangkok by mid-afternoon, in time for a rest before dinner.

What to Expect

The experience
Guided half-day tour from Bangkok with transfers: the Maeklong Railway Market timed for a passing train, then a boat ride through the canals of Damnoen Saduak floating market.
Best time
As early as possible; Damnoen Saduak is liveliest and coolest from about 7am to 10am.
How long
Six to eight hours door to door, including around three hours of driving.
Tips
Pick a tour timed to the Maeklong train. Keep well back from the rails. Bargain politely at the floating market. Eat from the boat vendors. Bring a hat and sunscreen.

Good Questions

Is Damnoen Saduak too touristy?

It is very touristy, with many souvenir stalls, but it is still lively and photogenic early in the morning, and the boat ride through the back canals is lovely. For a more local feel, try Amphawa or the Thonburi markets.

How often does the train pass through Maeklong market?

Several times a day on a fixed schedule. Tours are timed to arrive just before a train, and guides check for changes on the day.

How far are the markets from Bangkok?

Both are roughly ninety minutes by road southwest of the city, depending on traffic, and a short drive from each other.

Can I go without a tour?

Yes, by minivan or a combination of trains, but the timing is fiddly. A guided tour with pickup is far easier for a first visit.

What should I eat at the floating market?

Boat noodles, grilled bananas, coconut pancakes, mango sticky rice and fresh coconut, all cooked in the boats in front of you.

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