Khao San Road and Banglamphu

Khao San Road is a short street in Banglamphu, just north of the Grand Palace, that became a legend. From the 1980s, cheap guesthouses here turned it into the gathering point for backpackers in Southeast Asia, immortalised in novels and films, and today it is a full-blown nightlife street, pedestrianised in the evenings and lined with bars, clubs, massage shops, tattoo parlours, travel agents and food carts. By day it is fairly quiet, a strip of shops selling clothes and souvenirs. After dark it fills with Thai and foreign revellers, music blares from competing bars, vendors sell pad thai, fruit shakes, grilled skewers and novelty snacks, and the party continues into the small hours. It is loud, brash and touristy, and it is not for everyone, but it is great fun for a night and a must-see for many first-timers. The Thai government's own guide lists it among the country's best-known nightlife hotspots, and it is the epicentre of Bangkok's Songkran water festival in April. The real charm, though, is in the surrounding neighbourhood. Soi Rambuttri, which curves around the temple of Wat Chana Songkhram behind Khao San, is a more relaxed, tree-shaded lane of bars and restaurants. Phra Athit Road, a few minutes west along the river, has old shophouses, small bars with live music, the white Phra Sumen Fort and a riverside park, Santichaiprakarn. And Banglamphu itself is one of the oldest parts of the city, with markets, old-fashioned shops and some of the best street food in Bangkok, from the Michelin-recognised crab omelette stall of Jay Fai on Maha Chai Road to the noodle and curry shops around Wat Bowonniwet. The neighbourhood is walking distance from the Grand Palace, and Phra Arthit pier connects it to the river boats.

For most visitors, one evening on Khao San is enough, and the best way to do it is to start on the edges and work in. Begin with dinner in Banglamphu or on Phra Athit Road, where restaurants and small bars have more character and better food, then walk to Khao San around 10pm, when it is at its liveliest. Have a drink at one of the bars with a terrace to watch the scene, try a snack from the carts if you dare (the fried insect stalls are mostly for photos), and move on to Soi Rambuttri for a quieter last drink. Bars are loud and cheap; buckets of spirits and mixers are part of the culture, but pace yourself and keep an eye on your drink.

Practical points: carry only what you need, as pickpockets work the crowds; agree the fare before taking a tuk-tuk; and take taxis or Grab rides home rather than unlicensed cabs. There is no Skytrain or MRT station on Khao San itself; the closest options are the river boats from Phra Arthit pier by day, or a taxi to the MRT at Sam Yot or Sanam Chai. Massage shops along the road are cheap and generally fine for a foot massage, but for the best quality go to Wat Pho. During Songkran, in mid-April, Khao San becomes a massive water fight; join in only if you are happy to be soaked, and keep your phone in a waterproof pouch.

Staying in the area is ideal for budget travellers and those focused on the old town sights, as the temples are within walking distance. Riverside boutique hotels on Phra Athit Road, such as Riva Surya, offer a quieter, more grown-up base just a few minutes from the bars. Khao San is also close to Rajadamnern Stadium for Muay Thai, the Democracy Monument and the Golden Mount at Wat Saket, whose spiral staircase leads to one of the best free views over the old city.