Muay Thai at Rajadamnern Stadium

Muay Thai, the art of eight limbs, is Thailand's national sport, and Rajadamnern Stadium is its cathedral. Opened in 1945 on Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue, close to the old town and Khao San Road, it is the oldest of the country's great boxing stadiums and still the most prestigious place for a fighter to win a belt. A night here is far more than a fight card. Before each bout, the fighters perform the wai khru ram muay, a slow, ritual dance in the ring paying respect to their teachers, wearing the mongkhon headband and prajiad armbands. A small live band of pi (Javanese oboe), drums and cymbals plays throughout, and the music speeds up with the action. The crowd, especially the ringside gamblers who signal bets with hand gestures, is as much of a show as the fighters, and the noise rises with every clinch and kick. Rajadamnern has fights most nights of the week, with programmes that include traditional rules bouts and, in recent years, its own televised international series in a faster, more spectator-friendly format. Doors usually open in the early evening, from around 5pm or 6pm depending on the day, with the main fights later in the evening. Tickets are sold in several categories, from standard seats in the upper tiers to club and ringside seats close to the action; prices are higher for foreign visitors than locals, and buying through an authorised seller or the stadium avoids touts. For a first visit, a mid-range or ringside seat gives the best view of the wai khru and the fighters' technique.

Choose your night carefully. Card quality varies: the biggest fights and title bouts draw the most passionate crowds, while some weeknight programmes are more relaxed and have a higher share of tourists. Check the schedule on the day, and arrive early enough to see the full ritual of the early bouts, which are often fought by younger fighters with great energy. Each traditional bout lasts five rounds of three minutes; the early rounds are often cagey as fighters size each other up, and the action and the betting peak in the later rounds. Ask an usher or a neighbour to explain the scoring, which rewards balance, clean technique and control as much as power.

Ringside seats are the most expensive but bring you close enough to hear the impacts and feel the heat; second-tier seats offer a better view of the whole spectacle and the crowd. The atmosphere is boisterous but friendly, and the stadium is air-conditioned. Food and drinks are available inside. Bring cash and ID, and expect bag checks at the entrance. Photography is generally allowed but flash may not be. The stadium is a short taxi or tuk-tuk ride from Khao San Road and the old town, and a little further from Sukhumvit; packages with hotel transfers are available.

If you want to try Muay Thai yourself, Bangkok has many training camps that welcome beginners for a single session, from small community gyms to large, well-equipped camps in the suburbs. A morning class followed by an evening at Rajadamnern is a memorable pairing. Lumpinee Stadium, the other great Bangkok venue, moved from Rama IV Road to a newer stadium in the northern suburbs some years ago, so Rajadamnern is the more convenient choice for most visitors staying in central Bangkok.