Old Town / Banglamphu (Phra Athit)

Riva Surya Bangkok

★★★★★

Riva Surya is one of the best-value riverside hotels in Bangkok and an ideal base for exploring the old town. It sits on Phra Athit Road in Banglamphu, the old neighbourhood north of the Grand Palace, directly on the bank of the Chao Phraya. Phra Athit is one of the most attractive streets in the old city, lined with restored shophouses, small cafes, bars with live music and the white Phra Sumen Fort, and it is a short walk from Khao San Road, close enough to join the nightlife but far enough to sleep well. The hotel itself is a contemporary boutique property with a gentle, colonial-inspired design: dark wood, white walls, vintage travel touches and a calm palette. Its best feature is the outdoor pool beside the river, where you can swim while the boats pass, and the riverside terrace for breakfast and sunset drinks. Rooms are comfortable and stylish, with the river-view categories well worth the extra cost; the larger premium rooms add more space and better views. The hotel's restaurant serves Thai and international dishes with a riverside terrace. The location is excellent for sightseeing: the Grand Palace and Wat Pho are a short taxi or boat ride away, or a pleasant walk past Sanam Luang; Phra Arthit pier, a few minutes on foot, connects to the Chao Phraya Express and tourist boats; and the National Museum, the Golden Mount and Rajadamnern Stadium are all nearby. The Michelin Guide includes Riva Surya in its hotel selection, a mark of its standing among Bangkok's boutique hotels.

Staying in Banglamphu has real advantages. The old town and its temples are close, the streets have character and excellent street food, and in the early morning, before the traffic builds, the riverfront is peaceful. You can walk along Phra Athit to Santichaiprakarn Park to watch the sun set over the river and the Rama VIII Bridge, eat noodles at the old shophouses on the side streets, and finish the evening with a drink in one of the small live music bars that line the road. Khao San Road is a five-minute walk away when you want the full party.

Choosing a room: the river-view rooms are the best choice, with large windows looking over the water. The entry-level rooms face the city or the courtyard and are good value. The pool is small but lovely, and on the hottest afternoons it is the best place to be. Breakfast on the riverside terrace is a highlight. The nearest MRT station is a taxi ride away, so most guests use the river boats from Phra Arthit pier by day and taxis or Grab at night; this is the main trade-off of the location, as the Skytrain districts of Sukhumvit and Siam are a long ride in traffic.

Who it suits: couples and independent travellers who want character, a river view and a pool at a mid-range price, with the old town on the doorstep. It is less suited to travellers whose priorities are shopping malls and Sukhumvit nightlife, or to families who need large rooms. For a first visit focused on the temples, the river and the old neighbourhoods, it is one of the best choices in the city.