Goderdzi Snow Tour

One of the odd and delightful things about Batumi is that you can leave a palm-lined seafront in the morning and be playing in deep snow by lunchtime. Goderdzi, a resort at around 2,000 metres in the Arsiani range of Ajara, receives heavy winter snowfall thanks to the same moist Black Sea air that waters the coastal forests. A day tour from the city handles the long mountain drive and gives you hours in the snow, skiing, snowboarding, sledding or simply taking photographs. The resort has cable cars, including an eight-seat gondola and a six-seat bubble lift, and gentle slopes that suit beginners as well as more confident skiers. Equipment can usually be hired on site, and cafes at the base and on the slopes serve hot drinks and Georgian food. A multi-day pass for Georgian ski resorts exists but a day trip needs only a ticket for the lifts you plan to use.

The scenery is part of the appeal. The road climbs from the coast through humid forest into the clouds, then emerges above the treeline into a world of white ridges and clear air. On a bright day, the contrast between the sea level climate and the alpine setting feels almost surreal. Snow here can be deep, and in some years the pass stays white well into spring.

Preparation matters. Wear waterproof trousers and jacket, layers, gloves, a hat, sunglasses and sun cream, since snow reflects sunlight strongly. Waterproof boots keep your feet dry, and spare socks are a sensible addition. If you plan to ski, ask about equipment hire and lessons in advance. Carry cash for small purchases, as card acceptance can vary on the mountain.

The journey requires patience. Roads wind through the hills and can be slow in winter conditions, and drivers may use chains. Departure is early in the morning and the return is in the evening. If you are prone to motion sickness, take precautions. Check with the operator about weather alternatives, since closures can occur.

This is a seasonal experience, so plan for winter months. If you visit Batumi in summer, the same hills offer forest hikes and waterfalls instead. For winter visitors, a snow day is a memorable alternative to cold, grey beach weather, and it pairs well with a warm Georgian dinner in the city afterwards.

Think about the conditions on the day. Snow depth, wind and visibility change from week to week, so ask the operator for a recent update, and be flexible about the date if the forecast is poor. Dress in layers you can remove, because you may be hot in the sun and cold in the wind. Keep your phone warm in an inside pocket, since batteries drain quickly in the cold.

Finish the day with hot soup or a Georgian stew, and on the way back enjoy the unusual sensation of descending from white peaks into green hills and, finally, to the lights of the sea. Ask whether lessons or instructors are available if you have never skied, and whether children's equipment can be hired. Take some cash for food and equipment, and remember sunscreen and lip balm, because high-altitude sun is strong even when it is cold.