The hutongs are the soul of old Beijing: a maze of narrow grey-brick lanes lined with courtyard houses, where neighbours still sit outside on stools, laundry hangs over doorways and bicycles squeeze past tiny shops. The best-preserved area lies north of the Forbidden City around the Shichahai lakes, where the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower once kept time for the imperial city, and Houhai, the largest of the lakes, is lined with willows by day and lit-up bars by night. Small streets such as Yandai Xie, the old Tobacco Pouch Street, are packed with shops and snack stalls, and the little Yinding Bridge between the lakes has one of the best views in the old city. Exploring alone is rewarding but confusing, and a guide brings the lanes and courtyards to life. This page links to a private hutong walking tour on Viator, rated 5.0 from 49 reviews, covering the Bell and Drum Towers, Yandai Xie, the Back Lakes and Yinding Bridge, with snacks and lunch.
How to visit: the tour is private, so the guide can adapt the pace and route to your interests, and it lasts about four hours. The price varies with the size of your group. The area is easiest to reach by metro: Shichahai station on Line 8 drops you near the Drum Tower and the lakes. The lanes themselves are free to wander at any time, while the Drum Tower and Bell Tower have their own small entry fees.
What to expect: the walking is easy and flat, but the lanes are narrow, the curbs are high and the area gets crowded, which makes it hard going for wheelchair users. Be wary of friendly strangers or rickshaw drivers who invite you to a teahouse: the well-known tea scam here has cost travellers a great deal of money. November days are crisp and the lakes are quieter than in summer; in the depth of winter the frozen lakes become skating rinks.
Making the most of it: start in the morning, when residents are out shopping and exercising, then stay on for lunch and finish with a walk around Houhai at dusk as the lights come on.
What to expect
The experience
A private guided walk through the hutong lanes, past the Drum and Bell Towers and around the Shichahai lakes, with snacks and a dim sum lunch.
Best time
Morning, when residents are out and about, finishing with lunch; or the lakes at dusk if you want to stay on.
How long
About four hours.
Tips
Wear comfortable shoes, carry some cash for small shops and stalls, and politely decline teahouse invitations from strangers.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who want to see everyday life in old Beijing, away from the monumental sights.
- Families
- Flat, easy walking with snacks along the way; the private format lets you set a child-friendly pace.
- Couples
- Yinding Bridge and the willow-lined lakes are lovely for a stroll, especially as the lights come on.
- Pair with
- The Lama Temple in the morning, or the hutong food tour in the evening.
- Time needed
- Half a day.
Good questions
What are the hutongs in Beijing?+
Hutongs are the narrow lanes of old Beijing, lined with traditional courtyard houses, many of them still lived in. The area around the Drum Tower and the Shichahai lakes is among the best preserved.
Do I need a tour to visit the hutongs?+
No, the lanes are free to wander, but they are a confusing maze and a guide explains the courtyards, history and daily life. A private tour also lets you set the pace.
How do I get to Houhai and the Drum Tower?+
Take Line 8 of the metro to Shichahai station, which is close to the Drum Tower and the lakes. Taxis can drop you at the main roads around the lakes.
What is the tea scam in Beijing?+
Friendly strangers, sometimes posing as students, invite visitors to a teahouse and leave them with a huge bill. Politely decline invitations from people you meet on the street.
Is Houhai worth visiting at night?+
Yes, the lakeside comes alive at night with lit-up bars and live music. It is busy and touristy, but a pleasant place for a drink after a day in the lanes.
