Yuanmingyuan, the Old Summer Palace, was once the most lavish imperial garden complex in China, a sprawling estate of lakes, pavilions and European-style palaces designed with the help of Jesuit court artists. In 1860 it was burned and looted by Anglo-French forces during the Second Opium War, and its ruins have since become a powerful symbol in modern Chinese memory. Today the site is a large public park where the surviving marble pillars, carved stone fragments and the maze garden stand among reeds, willows and lotus ponds. It is a very different experience from the restored Summer Palace nearby, quieter, more melancholy and more open, and it rewards a slow walk. The ruins of the Great Fountain area, known as Xiyanglou, are the best-known corner, and the grounds are wide enough that you can find stretches with few other people. An admission ticket is inexpensive and easy to use.
How to visit
The Old Summer Palace is in Haidian district in the northwest, a short walk from the Summer Palace and close to Peking University and Tsinghua. The metro station Yuanmingyuan Park is the easiest way to arrive. Buy an admission ticket in advance and note that some areas, such as the ruins and the maze, may charge separately. Allow two to three hours for a full circuit.
What to expect
Broad paths, boats in the summer, lotus in July and August and fiery maples in autumn. The European-style ruins are a short walk from the main entrance, and information boards explain what the palaces looked like before the destruction. The scale is hard to grasp until you cross the park, and a bicycle or a small cart can help if you are tired. The mood is reflective, and it is a favourite with local photographers.
Making the most of it
Combine the park with the Summer Palace on the same day, going first to whichever suits the weather, and keep your energy for the long walk. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and go early in summer. A short read on the history of the 1860 sack makes the ruins much more meaningful. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and the ruins are especially atmospheric at the end of the day.
Planning notes
The Old Summer Palace asks you to use your imagination, and a little preparation helps. Before the destruction, the estate included the Garden of Perfect Brightness, the Garden of Eternal Spring and the Garden of Elegant Spring, covering an area many times larger than the present park, and its palaces housed a vast collection of art.
The ruins you see were stone parts of European-style buildings that did not burn as easily as the timber halls. Today the park has a calm, open feel, with reed beds, boats and quiet corners ideal for a picnic.
Bring a hat in summer because shade is limited, and wear layers in autumn. Visiting in the late afternoon gives soft light on the stone and fewer people, and it pairs naturally with dinner in the nearby university district. Cyclists enjoy the flat paths, and families often rent a boat in the warmer months, which gives a lovely low view of the ruins from the water.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided visit to the ruins and lakes of Yuanmingyuan with an admission ticket.
Best time
Spring blossom, summer lotus or autumn colour, and a clear morning.
How long
Two to three hours.
Tips
Pair it with the Summer Palace, wear comfortable shoes and read about the 1860 sack beforehand.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History lovers who want ruins and open space rather than restored halls.
- Families
- Lots of room to walk, and boats in summer.
- Couples
- A reflective walk among lakes and ruins.
- Pair with
- The Summer Palace, a short distance away.
- Time needed
- Two to three hours.
Good questions
What happened to the Old Summer Palace?+
It was burned and looted in 1860 by Anglo-French forces during the Second Opium War and was never rebuilt.
Is it near the Summer Palace?+
Yes, they are in the same northwest area, so many visitors see both in a day.
What are the main sights?+
The European-style marble ruins known as Xiyanglou, the lakes and the maze garden.
When is it best to visit?+
Spring, summer for lotus and autumn for colour are all good, and early mornings are quietest.
How do I get there?+
By metro to Yuanmingyuan Park station, a short walk from the entrance.
