Berlin Travel Guide
Where to Stay in Berlin
Berlin has no single old town, so choosing a neighbourhood matters. A clear guide to the five best areas for visitors, who each suits, and the hotels we recommend in each.
Berlin is a city of neighbourhoods, or Kieze, as Berliners say, and each has a distinct character. There is no single historic centre where everyone stays; the main sights are spread over several districts, and the city's best restaurants, bars and street life are often in residential areas rather than around the monuments. The good news is that public transport makes everywhere reachable, so the choice is less about distance and more about what kind of Berlin you want to wake up in. Here are the five areas we recommend for visitors.
Mitte: for first-timers and sightseers. Mitte, the historic centre, holds most of the essential sights: the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag at its western edge, Unter den Linden and the Gendarmenmarkt, Museum Island and the Humboldt Forum, and the TV Tower and Alexanderplatz to the east. Staying here means you can walk to most of the first two days of a typical itinerary. The southern part of Mitte, around Unter den Linden, is grand and institutional, with the city's great hotels, but quiet at night. The northern part, around Hackescher Markt and the Spandauer Vorstadt, is livelier, with courtyards, boutiques, galleries and restaurants. For a once-in-a-lifetime stay, choose the Hotel Adlon Kempinski beside the Brandenburg Gate or the Hotel de Rome on Bebelplatz, with its pool in an old bank vault. For a smart budget choice, Motel One Berlin-Hackescher Markt puts you in the best part of Mitte at a fraction of the price.
Prenzlauer Berg: for couples, families and cafe lovers. North of Mitte, Prenzlauer Berg is one of the most attractive districts of Berlin, with leafy streets of restored nineteenth-century apartment houses, squares with playgrounds, Sunday markets and countless cafes and restaurants. It was a centre of alternative culture in East Berlin and has since become prosperous and family-friendly. The Mauerpark and the Berlin Wall Memorial are on its western edge, and the U2 and trams connect it quickly to Alexanderplatz. Our pick is Hotel Oderberger, a former city bathhouse with its historic pool hall, a few minutes from the Mauerpark.
Kreuzberg: for food, music and the real Berlin. South of Mitte, Kreuzberg is the district of the Turkish community, the Landwehr Canal, street art, protest and nightlife. It is diverse and lively, with some of the best food in the city, from the market halls and Turkish bakeries to modern restaurants and cocktail bars. The Jewish Museum and Checkpoint Charlie are on its northern edge, and the East Side Gallery is just across the river. Some corners, such as Kottbusser Tor, can feel gritty, but that is part of its energy. Our pick is Orania.Berlin, a boutique hotel on Oranienplatz with jazz and classical concerts in its lobby and a celebrated restaurant.
Friedrichshain: for nightlife and the East Side Gallery. East of the river from Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain is younger, louder and cheaper, with the bars of Simon-Dach-Strasse, the RAW grounds, the vast socialist boulevard of Karl-Marx-Allee and some of the city's most famous clubs. The East Side Gallery runs along its riverbank. It suits visitors who want to go out late and do not mind noise. Our pick is the Michelberger Hotel, a creative, independent hotel in a converted factory by Warschauer Strasse station.
City West: for elegance, shopping and the Zoo. Around the Kurfuerstendamm, the Zoo and the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, City West was the centre of West Berlin during the division and remains a polished, bourgeois district of grand boulevards, department stores, theatres and old-world cafes. Charlottenburg Palace is to the north-west, and the Tiergarten begins at the Zoo. It is quieter at night than the eastern districts and further from Museum Island, but Zoologischer Garten station has fast connections across the city. Our pick is the 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin, a playful design hotel whose Jungle rooms look into the Zoo.
How to decide. For a first visit of three or four days, Mitte is the most convenient, especially for museum lovers. Couples and families who want charm and quiet should look at Prenzlauer Berg. Food lovers and music fans will love Kreuzberg; night owls should choose Friedrichshain. City West suits shoppers, theatre-goers and anyone who prefers a calmer, more classic city. Wherever you stay, check the walking distance to the nearest S-Bahn or U-Bahn station, which matters more in Berlin than in compact cities.
Practical notes. Remember the City Tax of 7.5% of the net room price, which may or may not be included in the rate. Prices rise sharply during major trade fairs, the marathon, big concerts and over New Year, so book early for those dates. Many Berlin hotels are in old buildings with courtyard and street-facing rooms; in lively areas, a courtyard room makes a big difference to sleep. Finally, short-term apartment rentals are tightly regulated in Berlin, so a licensed hotel is often the safest and simplest choice.