Swimming in the Aare and the Marzili

In summer, one of the most Bernese things you can do is get into the river. The Aare flows fast and clean around the Old Town, and on warm days thousands of residents swim, float and sunbathe along its banks. The classic route starts upstream and lets the current carry you toward the Marzili district, where you climb out at the steps by the riverside baths. The Marzili itself is a free open-air bathing area with pools, lawns, a snack kiosk and changing rooms, set below the Federal Palace and reached by a very short funicular from the terrace. The riverbank feels more like a village park than a tourist site, with families, students and office workers swimming in their lunch hour. The Aare comes from glaciers, so the water stays cold even in July, which is refreshing but demands respect. Swimming here is a local custom rather than a staged attraction, and sharing the experience is one of the best ways to feel part of the city.

Safety matters. The current is strong, the water is cold and the exit points are limited, so only strong swimmers should float the river and everyone should follow the local guidance. Enter at the signed access points, never swim near weirs or in flood conditions, and check warnings at the Marzili or at the tourist office before you go. Many locals carry a waterproof bag that floats with their belongings. If you are not a confident swimmer, stay in the Marzili pools and enjoy the lawns instead.

The season runs from early summer to early autumn, and the water level depends on snowmelt and rain, so conditions change from day to day. Late afternoon on a sunny day is the busiest time. Towels, sandals and a light bag are enough. There are showers and changing rooms at the Marzili, and food kiosks serve drinks, ice cream and simple meals. In the evening, many people gather on the lawns for picnics, and the riverside atmosphere is lively but relaxed.

Outside swimming season, the Aare is still worth a visit. The riverside paths provide a gentle walk from the Marzili under the Old Town bridges to the Bear Park and beyond, with views of the sandstone cliffs and the Minster. The short funicular, known as the Marzilibahn, is among the shortest public funiculars in Europe and links the Federal Terrace to the Marzili below, a fun ride for a small fare.

Combine the river with a visit to the Federal Palace, then end the day with a drink on a terrace. For those who prefer to stay dry, watching the swimmers from the bridges is entertainment enough.

Locals have their own habits that visitors can borrow. Many walk upstream with a waterproof bag, jump in at a marked spot and float down in about fifteen to thirty minutes, then climb out at the steps, dry off and head to a riverside kiosk for a drink. Swimmers cross the river rarely and stay close to the banks.

Cold-water reflexes can surprise you, so enter slowly and keep your head above water at first. If it is your first time, ask a lifeguard or a local for advice about the day's water level and current. There are changing rooms for those who plan to stay for the afternoon.