Emmental Show Dairy and Cheese Country

The Emmental is the green, hilly region east of Bern, famous for the large, hole-filled cheese that carries its name. The landscape is classic rural Switzerland: wide farmhouses with deep roofs, meadows, wooded ridges and small villages linked by narrow roads. The best-known visit is the show dairy at Affoltern im Emmental, which explains how Emmental cheese is produced. Visitors watch the cheesemaking process through large windows, see the copper vats and learn how the cheese develops its flavour and its famous holes. A cellar shows wheels maturing on long shelves, and a shop and restaurant serve local products. The visit gives a clear picture of a craft that has been part of the region for centuries. The Emmental is easy to reach from Bern by train and bus, making it a straightforward half-day or full-day trip, and it contrasts nicely with the city: slower, rural and focused on food.

The show dairy is the main stop, but the region offers more. Walking and cycling routes cross the hills with views over farms and forests, and traditional wooden bridges and old inns lie along the valleys. The town of Burgdorf has a castle on a hill overlooking the old town, and villages such as Lützelflüh are linked with the Swiss writer Jeremias Gotthelf, who set his stories here. If you enjoy hiking, a ridge walk can take you through farmland with wide views, and the trails are signed in the Swiss manner.

Public transport makes the trip simple. Trains run from Bern to Burgdorf and on to the Emmental towns, with buses to Affoltern, and journeys take about an hour each way depending on connections. Check the timetable and opening times of the dairy before you go, since hours vary by season and show times differ. A day ticket or Swiss travel pass can simplify costs, and a driver can reach more remote spots, though parking at the dairy is easy. Dress for changing weather and wear sturdy shoes if you plan to walk.

Combine the Emmental with a visit to a mountain restaurant, where farm cheese, cured meats, rosti and cream-based desserts are served in generous portions. Cheese lovers should ask for the local varieties, which include aged cheeses with nutty, complex flavours. If you want a guided day with cheese and chocolate, a small-group trip from Bern to Gruyères is a good alternative, as it covers castle, cheese and chocolate in a single day.

The Emmental suits travellers who prefer quiet rural scenery to big sights, and it makes a good family outing since children enjoy watching the cheesemaking.

The cheese itself has a fascinating story. Emmental is made from raw cow's milk in large copper vats and pressed into wheels weighing many kilos, and the holes appear as gas forms during ripening in a warm cellar. Cheese from the region is protected by a designation of origin, which means that it must be made and matured by traditional methods.

At the dairy shop you can buy cheese in different stages of maturity, from mild young cheese to strong aged cheese, and many visitors carry a wedge home. Buses to the dairy can be infrequent, so check the return times before you leave.