North Kohala is the oldest-feeling corner of the Big Island, birthplace of Kamehameha the Great and once a thriving sugar plantation district. The towns of Kapaau and Hawi sit along a single winding highway, trading on boardwalk-era storefronts, art galleries, small restaurants and a slower pace than the resort coast. In Kapaau stands the original statue of King Kamehameha, near the place associated with his birth; copies stand elsewhere, including in Honolulu and Washington, D.C. Hawi, a few minutes along the road, is the livelier of the two, with boutiques, cafes and a long view down to the sea.
The best way to see them is unhurried. Park in Kapaau, look over the statue and its civic setting, then continue to Hawi for lunch, a browse through shops and perhaps a coffee or shave ice. The area has a farm and artist community, and many shops sell locally made goods that are a better souvenir than anything at an airport. The architecture is a mix of old plantation buildings and modest wooden storefronts, and the whole area photographs well in the soft morning light.
North Kohala is also the gateway to quieter attractions. The Pololu Valley Lookout lies at the end of the road, the Mookini Heiau and the ancient birthplace area sit toward the northern tip, and several outfitters run ziplines, horseback rides and farm tours nearby. The scenery changes sharply from the dry resort coast to rolling pasture and rainforest, and the temperature drops a few degrees, which is a relief on a hot day.
Allow half a day or more, and drive carefully because the road is winding and the weather can switch between sun, wind and mist. Services are limited compared with Kona, so fill up with gas ahead of time and bring cash for small vendors. Visit on a weekday if you prefer quieter streets; weekend afternoons can be busier with local and visitor traffic.
What to expect
The experience
A relaxed drive and walk through Kapaau and Hawi, with the Kamehameha statue, galleries, cafes and plantation-era streets.
Best time
Late morning to early afternoon. Weekday visits are quieter.
How long
Two to four hours with lunch, longer with Pololu Valley.
Tips
Fill your gas tank before leaving the resort coast, bring cash for small shops, and expect changeable weather.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travelers who like small towns, local shops and a break from beaches.
- Families
- Easy for families; children enjoy the statue and shave ice.
- Couples
- A slow, charming afternoon with good coffee.
- Pair with
- Pololu Valley Lookout and Kohala Zipline.
- Time needed
- Half a day.
Good questions
Where is the original Kamehameha statue?+
In Kapaau, in North Kohala. Other casts stand in Honolulu and at the United States Capitol.
How long should I spend here?+
Plan at least two to three hours for a town stop, and half a day if you add Pololu Valley.
Is it far from the resorts?+
About 30 to 45 minutes from Waikoloa and Mauna Lani by road, depending on traffic.
What is there to eat?+
Hawi and Kapaau have casual cafes, bakeries and small restaurants. Options are fewer than in Kona, so check opening hours.
Is the drive difficult?+
The highway is paved and scenic but winding. Take it slowly, especially in rain or wind.
