Where you stay on Cape Cod shapes your trip more than almost anywhere else, because the peninsula is long and the best sights are spread along it. In the off-season the choice is also narrower, since many inns and motels close from late fall to spring. The five hotels below were all checked for winter opening, and each is either open now or has its closure stated.
Chatham: the elbow of the Cape
Chatham is the classic upscale base, with a pretty Main Street, the fish pier, the lighthouse overlook and nearby Monomoy for seal watching. Chatham Bars Inn is the splurge, a five-star oceanfront resort on Shore Road with a spa, a pool, beach access and restaurants that its winter guide says stay open year-round. Overnight guests get a complimentary shuttle within five miles. It is the best choice for couples, anniversaries and a romantic winter escape. Rates are high, but midweek and package rates in the off-season are more reasonable.
Hyannis: the practical hub
Hyannis is where the Nantucket ferries sail and where the buses arrive, so it is the logical base for an early boat or a travel day. Hyannis Harbor Hotel, at 213 Ocean Street on the harbor, is a mid-range choice with rooms and one-bedroom suites, a seasonal pool and a rate for parking that drops in the off-season. Pets are not allowed and guests must be 21 or older to book. Margaritaville Resort Cape Cod, the former Cape Codder Resort & Spa on Iyannough Road, is a large resort with a spa, restaurants and a water park, better for families and groups. Confirm which pools and park features are running in November.
West Yarmouth: the budget mid-Cape
Bayside Resort Hotel is a three-star property on the mid-Cape, listed with low November rates and about ten minutes from the Hyannis ferries. A car is needed, because the area is spread out. It is the pick when you want to spend on experiences rather than rooms, and you should check the latest amenities on the booking page.
Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard: the island base
If you want to stay overnight on an island in winter, Harbor View Hotel in Edgartown is the classic. Its FAQ says it is open year-round, closing for a few weeks in January, with winter breakfast and brunch at Behind The View and Bettini for dinner. The pool is seasonal. Foot passengers can take the Steamship Authority ferry from Woods Hole, and a taxi or bus covers the last stretch to the village.
What about Provincetown and Nantucket?
Provincetown has many guesthouses and inns, but several are seasonal and we could not verify winter opening for our shortlist, so we have held them back. The same is true on Nantucket, where a number of hotels close for the winter. If you want either, call to check dates, and consider coming back in the summer season for whale watching, island tours and the full range of properties.
Quick picks
Splurge and romance: Chatham Bars Inn. Island weekend: Harbor View Hotel. Ferry day and mid-range: Hyannis Harbor Hotel. Family resort: Margaritaville Resort Cape Cod. Budget: Bayside Resort Hotel. Whatever you choose, book weekends early, ask about off-season specials and confirm the hours of restaurants, spas and pools before you go.