The Rose Valley and the Red Valley, Güllüdere and Kızılçukur in Turkish, are the most beloved walking country in Cappadocia and the place most people head for sunset. They lie side by side just east of Göreme, between the villages of Çavuşin and Ortahisar, inside the Göreme National Park, which UNESCO inscribed as a World Heritage Site together with the rock sites of Cappadocia. The names come from the colour of the rock: layers of volcanic tuff in shades of rose, salmon, cream and rust, which the low evening sun sets alight. The valleys are a maze of ridges, gullies and fairy chimneys, with small fields, vineyards and apricot and walnut orchards on the valley floors, and trails that wind past rock-cut dovecotes and churches. The most famous church here is the Church of the Cross, Haçlı Kilise, high in the Rose Valley, with a carved cross on its ceiling and old paintings; nearby are the Column Church and other chapels where you may find a local farmer selling fresh orange juice and tea from a little cave café. Walking is free, and the trails are open at all times, though only a fool walks them after dark without a light. The most popular plan is a late-afternoon walk from Çavuşin or the Göreme side through the valleys to the panoramic sunset point on the ridge above the Red Valley, which can also be reached by car. If you prefer not to walk, sunset horseback rides and quad-bike tours cross the same country.
Choosing your route: there are several entry points and many interlinking paths, which is part of the charm and part of the challenge, as signposting is limited and trails split often. A good classic route starts at the Çavuşin end, follows the Rose Valley up past the Column Church and the Church of the Cross, then crosses into the Red Valley and climbs to the sunset viewpoint, taking about two to three hours at an easy pace. Download an offline map app with the trails marked before you set off, carry water and a snack, and allow extra time to find your way. Many hotels in Göreme can give you a hand-drawn map or arrange a guide.
When to go: late afternoon is the obvious time, for the colour and the sunset, but it is also when the viewpoint fills up with tour minibuses. Morning is quieter and cooler, especially in summer. In November, the poplars and vineyards turn golden, the air is clear and the light is beautiful, but the days are short and the temperature drops quickly once the sun goes down, so bring a warm layer and a headlamp, and plan to be out of the valleys soon after sunset. After rain the paths can be slippery and muddy, and some narrow gullies should be avoided.
Making a day of it: combine the walk with a morning at the Göreme Open-Air Museum, a lunch in Çavuşin, where the old village rises up a cliff riddled with abandoned cave houses and the Church of St John the Baptist, and then the hike to the sunset point. Taxis will pick you up from the viewpoint, or you can walk back to Göreme in the dusk with a light. For a different perspective, the sunset horse ride follows the Rose Valley and passes the Church of the Cross.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk on unmarked trails through two neighbouring valleys of pink and red rock, past orchards, cave churches and fairy chimneys, ending at a ridge-top sunset viewpoint.
Best time
Late afternoon into sunset for the colour; morning for cooler, quieter walking. In November, start early enough to finish before dark.
How long
Two to three hours for the classic route, longer if you explore the side valleys.
Tips
Use an offline trail map, carry water and a headlamp, wear grippy shoes, and arrange a taxi from the sunset point if you do not want to walk back.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Walkers and photographers who want Cappadocia's landscape at its most colourful, for free.
- Families
- Good for active children on the shorter stretches; avoid narrow gullies and leave before dark.
- Couples
- The sunset at the ridge above the Red Valley is the region's most romantic free experience.
- Pair with
- The Göreme Open-Air Museum in the morning and the sunset horseback ride as an alternative way in.
- Time needed
- A long afternoon.
Good questions
Is the Rose Valley free?+
Yes, the valleys are open countryside with no entrance fee. Some small churches or cafés run by local families may ask a small fee or sell drinks.
How long is the Rose Valley hike?+
The classic walk from Çavuşin through the Rose and Red Valleys to the sunset viewpoint takes two to three hours at an easy pace. Many shorter and longer variations exist.
Is the trail marked?+
Only partly. Paths split often and signs are few, so use an offline map app with the trails shown, or hire a local guide.
Where is the best sunset point?+
The panoramic viewpoint on the ridge above the Red Valley is the classic spot and can also be reached by car. Arrive early in busy seasons.
Is it safe to walk at sunset?+
Yes, if you are prepared. Carry a headlamp, stay on clear paths and avoid narrow gullies after rain, because the trails are dark and confusing once the sun sets.