Sofa Hotel

Sofa Hotel is the place to stay if you want a quieter, more local base for Cappadocia at a friendly price. It sits in Orta Mahalle, the old quarter of Avanos, on the hillside above the Kızılırmak, the Red River, Turkey's longest river, whose clay has supplied the town's potters for thousands of years. The hotel is made up of a cluster of old stone houses joined together around courtyards, stairways and a garden, and it has a creative, relaxed character, with traditional details and colourful touches. Rooms vary across six types, from simple doubles to larger rooms and suites, some with stone vaulted ceilings and some carved partly into the rock in the Cappadocian way. There is a garden and a terrace, a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, and free self-parking, which matters if you are driving around the region. On Expedia, guests rate the hotel highly, and it is consistently good value compared with the cave hotels of Göreme. From the door you can walk down to the river, cross the footbridge and explore the town's pottery workshops, where you can watch potters at the kick wheel and try it yourself. Avanos is about fifteen minutes by car from Göreme, and balloon companies and day tours collect from hotels in the town. Zelve, Paşabağ and the Devrent Valley lie on the road between Avanos and Göreme, which makes Avanos a convenient base for the northern sights.

Location and getting around: Avanos is a working town rather than a tourist village, with a riverside promenade, cafés, a market and dozens of pottery studios. The old quarter climbs the hill above the river, so expect some uphill walking from the riverfront to the hotel. Local buses connect Avanos with Göreme, Nevşehir and Ürgüp, and taxis are easy to find, but a hire car gives you the most freedom, and the hotel's free parking makes driving easy. Balloon flights and the Green and Red Tours offer pickup from Avanos.

Rooms and who it suits: Sofa suits independent travellers, couples and small families on a budget who prefer character to luxury and would rather spend their money on a balloon flight. Rooms are individual, as you would expect in a hotel made from old houses, so sizes, shapes and views vary; ask for a room with a view over the town or river if you want one. There are steps between levels. The atmosphere is relaxed, and it is a good choice for longer stays when you want a break from the bustle of Göreme.

Good to know: check whether breakfast is included in your rate, as the restaurant serves meals but rate plans differ. Evenings in Avanos are calm, with riverside restaurants serving local dishes such as testi kebab, a stew cooked in a sealed clay pot that is broken open at the table. In November, bring warm layers, as old stone houses can be cool in the evening; ask the hotel about heating. The balloons often drift over the Avanos area later in their flights, so you may see some from the town on flying mornings.