Esopus Creek Tubing

Phoenicia is the self-proclaimed tubing capital of the Catskills. On warm days, the Esopus Creek fills with people floating on inner tubes past wooded banks, small rapids and shaded pools, and the town has built a small economy around the tradition. Rental shops provide tubes, life jackets and shuttle rides back to the start, and a typical trip lasts two to three hours depending on water levels and how often you stop to swim. It is a cheap, joyful, slightly chaotic day out, and for many families it is the memory that defines a summer in the mountains.

Water levels set the pace. After a wet spring the creek runs fast and the float is quick and bouncy, while in a dry late summer it slows to a drift and some stretches become shallow enough to drag your tube. Rental shops post daily conditions and will tell you honestly whether the float is worth doing, so ask when you arrive. Tubing is generally a summer activity, running from about late June through Labor Day, and shops close or reduce hours as the season ends.

You will be asked to sign a waiver, put on a life jacket and follow safety instructions, and children must fit the shop rules for age and size. Wear secure water shoes, because the creek bed is rocky and flip-flops come off. Sunscreen, a hat and a dry change of clothes are essential, and a waterproof pouch keeps your phone and keys safe. Avoid glass and alcohol-heavy outings, which are discouraged and can be unsafe in moving water.

The scenery is a large part of the appeal. The creek runs through a green valley framed by wooded hills, with kingfishers and herons along the banks, and the town of Phoenicia sits within walking distance at both the start and the end. Many people finish with lunch at a cafe, a visit to the shops or a swim in a deeper pool. Saturdays in July and August are the busiest days, so weekday trips are calmer and often easier to park for.

If you prefer a more relaxed option, shorter floats are available, and there are beaches and swimming holes along the road for people who want to wade rather than drift. Nearby, rail bikes, the Empire State Railway Museum and Belleayre Mountain offer rainy-day or add-on activities, and the Emerson Resort at Mount Tremper is a few minutes down the road.

Check the rental shop website or call before you go to confirm hours, prices, age and weight requirements and how the shuttle works. Some shops require reservations for groups. Arrive earlier in the day to avoid the afternoon crowds and thunderstorms that sometimes arise on summer afternoons. If the weather turns, get out of the water and wait until it clears.

A few etiquette points keep the day pleasant for everyone. Pack out what you bring in, stay off private banks, and keep your group together so you can help each other through the quick spots. Tie tubes together only where the shop says it is safe, and never stand up in fast current, since a foot trapped between rocks is the main hazard.

Early in the season the water is cold enough to take your breath away, so a light wetsuit top or a rash guard makes the float much more comfortable for children and anyone who chills easily.