Mahabalipuram Shore Temple and Arjuna's Penance

Mahabalipuram, also called Mamallapuram, was a major port and religious centre of the Pallava dynasty in the seventh and eighth centuries, and its monuments are among the finest early stone architecture in India. The Shore Temple, built in the early eighth century during the reign of Narasimhavarman II, stands on a rocky spit overlooking the Bay of Bengal. It is a structural temple of granite blocks rather than a rock-cut one, with two Shiva shrines facing opposite directions and a smaller Vishnu shrine between them, and its stepped pyramidal towers are a model for the great temples of the later Chola period. Wind and sea spray have softened the carving, giving the stone a weathered grace. Close by, the great open-air relief known as Arjuna's Penance or the Descent of the Ganges is carved into two huge boulders and stretches some thirty metres across. Gods, celestial beings, elephants, deer and ascetics fill the surface, and a natural cleft once carried water to represent the sacred river. It is one of the largest and most celebrated rock reliefs in the world, and a good guide will explain whether it shows the penance of Arjuna or the descent of the Ganges, a debate that has lasted generations. The monuments at Mahabalipuram were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1984.

A visit usually starts early to beat both the heat and the crowds. The Shore Temple has a ticket office and security check, and visitors walk around the compound, with a short path through the gardens to the sea wall. The site is managed by the Archaeological Survey of India, and foreign visitors normally pay a higher ticket price than Indian residents.

Hours are typically from morning to evening, and tickets for the Shore Temple and the other monuments are often sold separately, so ask your guide how to organise them. Wear a hat and sunscreen, since there is little shade.

Mahabalipuram town is itself a delight. Streets near the temple are lined with stone-carving workshops where sculptors chip away at granite figures of gods and animals, and the sound of hammers and chisels fills the air. The Krishna's Butter Ball, a huge balancing boulder on a slope, is a favourite photo stop, and the Krishna Mandapa, a rock-cut cave temple with fine carvings, is just a short walk away. A coastal lighthouse and a quiet beach complete the picture, and cafes along the main road serve seafood and simple Indian dishes.

Most travellers visit as a day trip from Chennai, roughly fifty-five kilometres to the south along the East Coast Road, which usually takes one and a half to two hours each way depending on traffic. Tours linked here include private guides, lunch and entrance fees in some cases, and they can be combined with other nearby sights such as the Five Rathas, the Madras Crocodile Bank or DakshinaChitra. If you prefer a slower pace, stay overnight in a beach resort so that you can visit the temple at sunrise, when the light turns the granite gold and the crowds are thin.

The best season is the cooler months from November to February, when the sea breeze is pleasant and the skies are often clear. The monsoon from October to December can bring rain and rough seas, and summer from April to June is hot and humid. The annual dance festival, held in winter, stages classical performances against the backdrop of the monuments, and it is worth checking the dates if you want to combine sightseeing with a show. Wear comfortable shoes, since the paths are uneven and the rocks can be slippery after rain.