Chongqing is a city for people who love to eat. Its cuisine is bold, hot and numbing, built on chilli, Sichuan pepper, garlic, fermented bean paste and rich oils, and it runs from steaming breakfast noodles to midnight hotpot. Many visitors come mainly for the food, and it is easy to see why. This guide explains the main dishes, how to order, how to cope with the heat and where to start.
Hotpot, the headline act
Chongqing hotpot uses a broth based on beef tallow, dried chillies and Sichuan pepper, which simmers at the centre of the table while diners cook thin slices of beef, tripe, duck intestine, tofu, lotus root, potato and leafy greens. It is said to have grown up among dock workers on the river, and today there are hotpot restaurants on almost every street. You prepare your own dipping sauce from sesame oil, garlic, coriander and vinegar, and the oil dip cools the heat. If you are not used to spice, ask for a mild pot or a split pot with a clear broth on one side.
How to order hotpot
Menus can be long and mostly in Chinese, but many places offer picture menus or tablets for ordering. Start with a few meats, some vegetables and tofu, then add more as you go. Items such as tripe and duck intestine are quick to cook, while potato and lotus root take longer. Staff will often top up the broth, and some restaurants offer free snacks, sweet drinks or fruit while you wait. A food walk with a local guide takes the stress out of the first experience.
Noodles and breakfast
Chongqing xiaomian, or small noodles, is the local breakfast and lunch staple: a bowl of wheat noodles in a spicy, savoury broth topped with minced pork, peas or greens. Other noodle dishes include sour-and-hot rice noodles and sesame noodles. Breakfast stalls also sell steamed buns, soy milk and fried dough, and a hot bowl of noodles on a damp morning is a Chongqing ritual.
Street snacks and old-town treats
In old towns such as Ciqikou you can try twisted fried dough, rice-flour sweets, skewers, glutinous rice cakes and cold noodles. Grilled fish in a spicy sauce, served on a metal tray with vegetables, is a favourite for groups. Spicy fried chicken with piles of dried chillies is another local classic, where you dig for the chicken among the peppers. Eat small portions of many things rather than one large meal.
Handling the spice
Chongqing food has two kinds of heat: the burn of chilli and the tingling numbness of Sichuan pepper. If it gets too much, drink milk, soy milk or a sweet drink rather than water, and eat plain rice, bread or tofu. Oil dips can help in hotpot. If you have a sensitive stomach, start gently and avoid eating spicy food late at night on your first day. Carry tissues and wipes, since noses run and fingers get messy.
Drinks and tea
Beer is the usual companion for hotpot and grilled food, and local baijiu, a strong grain spirit, is common at banquets. Sweet drinks such as sour plum juice and soy milk are popular palate cleansers. Teahouses are a restful option, with tea served in lidded cups and snacks on the side. If you prefer coffee, there are plenty of modern cafés in the shopping districts.
Dietary needs
Vegetarians can eat tofu, vegetables and noodles, but broths are often made with meat fat, so ask carefully or choose vegetable-based dishes. Halal and gluten-free options exist but are limited, and it helps to have a translation card for allergies. A guided food tour or a cooking class can help you navigate menus and ingredients.
Cooking classes and food tours
An evening food and hotpot walk is the easiest way to start, since a local explains each dish, handles ordering and leads you to places you might not find alone. A wet market tour and cooking class adds a hands-on side, teaching you about ingredients such as peppercorns and bean paste. Both are good ways to get the most out of a short stay.
Practical tips
Restaurants get busy at peak times, so go a little early or expect a wait. Payment is mostly by mobile wallet, so bring a backup of cash. Tipping is not expected. Be ready to share tables in busy places, and be patient if staff speak little English. Most of all, be adventurous, because the best meals are often in the simplest-looking places.