National Underground Railroad Freedom Center

The Ohio River was once the border between slavery and freedom, and the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center stands on its north bank in downtown Cincinnati to tell that story. The museum focuses on the freedom seekers who crossed the river and the network of people who sheltered and guided them, and it does so with unusual directness. Its centerpiece is the Slave Pen, a timber structure that once held enslaved people in Kentucky before they were sold south, moved here and rebuilt inside the museum. Around it, exhibitions such as ESCAPE! Freedom Seekers and the Underground Railroad, From Slavery to Freedom and Brothers of the Borderland follow the history from the slave trade to the Civil War and beyond, while Invisible: Slavery Today looks at human trafficking now. The museum recommends three to four hours, and the films inside are some of its most moving parts. It is open Wednesday to Sunday, so plan around the Monday and Tuesday closures.

Hours and tickets: the Freedom Center opens Wednesday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm, with last entry at 4:30pm, and it is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Most exhibit films have their last showing at 4pm, so arrive by lunchtime to see everything. Adult admission is a little over twenty dollars, with reduced prices for seniors and children aged 3 to 12, small discounts on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and free entry for children under 3. The museum recommends buying online in advance, and on-site sales are card only. Combination tickets with the Nancy & David Wolf Holocaust & Humanity Center are sold only in person.

Getting there: the museum is at 50 East Freedom Way on the riverfront between the two stadiums, a short walk from Fountain Square and the hotels downtown. The free Connector streetcar loop begins at The Banks just steps away. The museum notes that major road works around the Brent Spence Bridge corridor can affect routes into downtown, so check traffic if you are driving. There is paid parking in the garages under The Banks.

How to see it: start with the introductory film, then spend unhurried time in the Slave Pen and the ESCAPE! galleries before moving upstairs. The subject matter is heavy, and some displays may be too intense for young children; the museum suits older children and teenagers well. Afterward, step outside onto the riverfront, where the view across the water to Kentucky gives the stories new weight.