Bussaco Forest and Palace

The Mata Nacional do Buçaco is one of the most magical places in Portugal. It is a walled forest of about a hundred hectares on the Serra do Bussaco, where Discalced Carmelite monks built a retreat in the seventeenth century and filled the grounds with trees from across the world. Today you can walk among cedars, cypresses, giant ferns and hundreds of species of trees and shrubs, along paths that pass fountains, chapels, stone steps and viewpoints. The forest was protected by papal decree against anyone who damaged its trees, a tradition of care that helps explain the density and age of the woodland. At its centre stands the Bussaco Palace, a Neo-Manueline building completed in the early twentieth century as a royal hunting lodge and now a hotel. With its towers, carved stone and ornate interiors, it looks like something from a storybook, and the mixture of granite and lace-like carving is a showpiece of Portuguese romantic architecture. Even if you do not stay, you can often have a coffee or a meal in the palace grounds and see the entrance hall.

Walking is the main activity. Marked routes lead from the palace to the Fonte Fria, the Cold Fountain, down a cascade of stone steps, to the Vale dos Fetos, the Valley of Ferns, where tree ferns grow in damp shade, and up to the Cruz Alta viewpoint for sweeping views to the Atlantic on clear days. The Via Sacra, the Way of the Cross, winds through the trees with small chapels, and the whole forest is quiet, cool and green even when the plains below are hot.

History adds a second layer. In September 1810, the Battle of Bussaco took place on the ridge, when the British and Portuguese army under Wellington defeated the French under Masséna during the Peninsular War. A small military museum and monuments mark the site, and the battle is a popular subject for guides.

Most visitors come on a half-day tour from Coimbra, which saves driving and parking and includes a walking guide. The forest is about a thirty-minute drive away, and the nearby spa town of Luso offers spring water, cafes and walking trails. If you drive, note that vehicle access to the forest may be limited, with some entry fees or restrictions to protect the trees.

Bring comfortable shoes with good grip, since the paths are uneven and can be slippery after rain. A light jacket is useful because the forest is cooler than the town. The best seasons are spring, for fresh growth, and autumn, for colour, though summer shade is very welcome.

Allow a half day, and consider lunch at the palace or in Luso to complete the visit. For many travellers, this is the most beautiful afternoon they spend in central Portugal. If you enjoy photography, bring a lens that works in low light, since the canopy keeps the forest dim even on bright days.

Allow time for the small chapels along the Via Sacra, which are modest but atmospheric, and for the lakes and fountains that create reflections in the afternoon. A hot drink at the palace terrace, with the carved stone glowing in the late sun, is a fine way to end the visit, and the drive back to Coimbra through the pine and eucalyptus hills makes a pleasant close to the day.