Tomar and the Convent of Christ

The Convent of Christ in Tomar is one of the most remarkable monuments in Portugal and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It began in the twelfth century as a fortress of the Knights Templar, founded by Gualdim Pais in 1160, when the order held land in the young kingdom and helped defend it against the Moors. After the Templars were dissolved in the early fourteenth century, the order continued in Portugal under a new name, the Order of Christ, which later funded the voyages of the Age of Discovery under Prince Henry the Navigator, who was its governor. The oldest part is the Charola, a round Templar church modelled on the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, with an octagonal core and painted interior. Around it, the Order added a huge nave and a series of cloisters over several centuries. The most famous detail is the great window of the Chapter House, a breathtaking Manueline composition of carved ropes, seaweed, coral, chains and symbols of exploration, often called the finest example of Portuguese Manueline art.

Tomar itself is a pleasure. The old town sits beside the Nabão river, with a main square, a handsome parish church, narrow streets and a small synagogue that is one of the oldest in Portugal and now houses a museum. The Jewish and Templar histories overlap with modern life, and a short guided walk helps you see them. The river park, with a water wheel and shaded paths, is a lovely place for a pause.

Visiting the convent requires some time and shoes with grip. Paths, stairs and uneven floors are part of the experience, and the site is large, so allow two to three hours. Entry is ticketed, and a guided tour with entry included is a strong choice, since it explains the layers of building and the symbolism. Small-group tours from Coimbra are inexpensive and often include a short orientation of the town.

Tomar is about an hour from Coimbra by road, and many visitors combine it with Fátima and Batalha on a themed day, sometimes called the Templar route. Others prefer to give it a full half day, with a leisurely lunch in the town and a walk along the river. In summer, start early to avoid heat, and in spring the surrounding hills are green.

Bring a light jacket for the interiors and a camera for the window. If you like to read before you go, look up the history of the Templars in Portugal, because the story is different from the myths found in popular culture. Tomar offers the real history, which is more interesting, and the combination of fortress, church and Manueline art is unlike anywhere else in the country.

Food is part of the visit too. Tomar is known for fatias de Tomar, a rich egg-yolk sweet, and for hearty regional cooking served in small restaurants near the main square.

If you have time, take a stroll through the Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes, the green park that rises behind the convent, whose paths give another viewpoint over the walls and the town. In July in certain years the town hosts the Festa dos Tabuleiros, a spectacular procession with flower-crowned bread towers, so check dates if you hope to see it.