Coimbra is a medium-sized city in the centre of Portugal, about halfway between Lisbon and Porto, and it is one of the easiest places in the country to reach and to explore on foot. It is also one of the steepest, and a few practical points will make your first visit smoother.
Getting there
Coimbra sits on the main railway line between Lisbon and Porto, so trains are the simplest way to arrive. Fast intercity trains stop at Coimbra-B, the main station on the edge of the city, while regional and local trains also call at Coimbra-A, a smaller station near the centre. A short shuttle train links the two, so check which station your ticket uses and allow time for the transfer. The journey from Lisbon or Porto takes roughly one and a half to two hours by the faster services. By road, the motorway network connects Coimbra to both cities, and the drive is straightforward, though parking in the centre is limited.
Getting around
The city is compact, but the hill is the main fact of life. The university and old town sit at the top, the Baixa or lower town lies along the river and the left bank is across the bridge. Most visitors walk between sights, taking the long staircases and lanes through the Almedina arch, and use taxis when tired. Taxis are inexpensive and easy to find at the stations and the main squares, and local buses and a lift near the market help with some of the climbs. A car is not necessary for the city, and it can be a burden because of narrow streets, but it is useful for visiting the countryside.
What to book ahead
The University of Coimbra and the Joanina Library are the key tickets. Entry is by timed slot, and popular times sell out in spring and autumn. Fado shows in the old town are small, so reserve a seat if you have a particular evening in mind. Day trips, including Conímbriga, Bussaco and Aveiro, are best booked a day or two in advance in high season. Everything else can be handled on the spot.
What to wear and carry
Shoes with grip are the most important item, since cobbles can be slippery after rain. Bring a light layer, because the evenings are cooler than the afternoons, and a rain jacket for autumn and winter. In summer, carry water and sun protection, and plan sightseeing for the morning and evening. Churches ask for modest dress, so keep shoulders covered.
Money and language
Portugal uses the euro. Cards are accepted in most shops, restaurants and hotels, though small cafes may prefer cash for small amounts. English is widely spoken by people working in tourism, and a few words of Portuguese, such as bom dia, obrigado or obrigada and por favor, are appreciated. Prices are generally lower than in Lisbon, and meals of the day, called pratos do dia, offer good value at lunch.
Customs worth knowing
Coimbra is a student city, and its traditions matter. Students in black capes are part of daily life, particularly in term time, and visitors should be respectful and ask before taking photographs. At a fado show, stay quiet during the songs, and in the Coimbra style it is traditional to show appreciation with a soft cough instead of applause. Restaurants often serve lunch from noon to three and dinner from seven or eight, and some close between services, so plan your meals accordingly.
Safety and health
Coimbra is generally calm and safe, with the usual advice to watch your belongings in crowds and on public transport. Pharmacies are plentiful, and tap water is safe to drink. In summer, heat can be strong, so take breaks in the shade.
Accessibility
The old town is difficult for visitors with limited mobility because of its stairs and cobbles. Some sights have lifts or alternative routes, but not all. If you need step-free access, plan to use taxis to reach the upper town and ask each site about access in advance. The Baixa and the river promenades are flatter and easier.
Where to stay
The best base for most first-time visitors is the central area near the Baixa and the stations, where hotels such as the Hotel Astoria and the Hotel Oslo put you close to everything. Families may prefer a larger hotel such as the Vila Galé Coimbra, while couples celebrating something special can look at the Quinta das Lágrimas.