The Finger Lakes are the leading cool-climate wine region of the eastern United States, and the wine trails around the lakes are the main reason many people visit. The region grows vinifera grapes such as Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir alongside hardier hybrids, and its deep lakes moderate temperatures enough to make serious winemaking possible. The question for a visitor is not whether to taste, but where, and how to do it without driving after drinking.
Seneca Lake: the big trail
Seneca is the deepest of the lakes and has the largest concentration of wineries, on both the east and west shores. It is the best choice for first-timers who want variety, from large estates with restaurants and views to small family operations. Riesling is the signature, in styles from bone-dry to off-dry, and sparkling wines and reds from Cabernet Franc add range. The trail can be busy in summer and October, particularly on weekends, so weekday visits are calmer. A guided tour is the easiest way to see several wineries, and a self-guided audio guide is a flexible option if you have a designated driver.
Keuka Lake: small, historic and scenic
Keuka, the Y-shaped lake, was the cradle of Finger Lakes winemaking, and Hammondsport has long been the center of New York sparkling wine. The wineries here tend to be smaller and the hills steeper, with long views from hillside tasting rooms. Dry Riesling and sparkling wines are the highlights. The pace is slower and often more personal than on Seneca, and the village of Hammondsport offers a charming base. It also pairs with the Curtiss Museum on a rainy afternoon.
Canandaigua Lake: quiet and rural
The western lake has fewer wineries, with a mix of family operations, cider makers and farm-style tasting rooms around the Naples valley. It is a good choice if you want a relaxed day away from crowds, or if you are traveling from Rochester. A guided tour here often includes a mix of wine, cider and fruit-based drinks, and the day pairs well with a sunset cruise.
Cayuga Lake and beyond
Cayuga has its own wine trail with a handful of excellent producers, a natural add-on to a visit to Ithaca and Taughannock Falls. Smaller wine trails and cideries are scattered through the region, and breweries, distilleries and meaderies have grown in recent years, which suits groups with different tastes. A brewery tour is a good alternative for beer drinkers.
Tasting basics
Most wineries charge a tasting fee, often for a flight of several pours, and many waive it with a bottle purchase. Weekends and October are busy, so reserve if you have a group, and ask about hours since many wineries close early or on certain days in winter. Spit buckets are normal, water is provided and food is important, so eat a proper meal between visits. Wineries will often ship to many states, so you do not have to carry heavy cases home.
Drinking and driving
The safest options are a guided tour with a driver, a designated driver who does not taste or a hotel on or near the trail. A winery inn such as The Inn at Glenora lets you taste on site and walk to your room. Use a self-guided audio guide only if a sober driver is in charge. Rideshare is limited in rural areas, so do not rely on it.
How many wineries is enough?
Three to five per day is plenty. Tasting more than that dulls the palate and rushes the experience. Choose one lake per day, mix one large and two small wineries, and add a long lunch. If you are staying in Corning, Keuka Lake is the closest, and a night in Geneva or Watkins Glen makes Seneca easier.
What to buy
Look for dry Riesling, sparkling wines made in the traditional method and Cabernet Franc, and ask the staff what they pour for themselves. Cider and fruit wines can also be excellent. Bring a cooler bag in summer, check shipping rules for your home state and keep receipts for any bottles you carry on a flight.
A sample two-day wine plan
On day one, take a guided tour on Seneca Lake in the afternoon after a gorge walk in the morning, and finish with dinner at a winery restaurant. On day two, drive to Keuka Lake for smaller wineries and a stroll in Hammondsport, then visit the Curtiss Museum if you want a break from tasting. If you still have energy, end with a sunset by the water. Keep notes on what you like, because your preferences often change as you taste, and ask for recommendations from the people who pour.