The Sacred Valley

The Sacred Valley of the Incas is the broad, fertile valley of the Urubamba River that runs northwest from Pisac to Ollantaytambo, some 30 to 60 kilometers from Cusco and several hundred meters lower, with a milder climate, fields of giant white corn and snow peaks above. For the Incas it was a breadbasket and a royal retreat, and the valley holds some 350 archaeological sites. A day trip from Cusco is the classic introduction, and the Tiqets product linked here is a ten-hour guided tour with hotel pickup and drop-off in central Cusco, a bilingual guide and the entrance fee to the valley sites, visiting Pisac, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero, with lunch not included. At Pisac, at the eastern entrance to the valley, an Inca citadel spreads along a mountain ridge high above the town, with sweeping curved terraces, a ceremonial sector with fine temples and an Intihuatana, and cliffs riddled with Inca tombs; below, the town is known for its handicraft market, liveliest on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Ollantaytambo, at the western end, is a living Inca town whose fortress-temple climbs a steep hill of terraces to the unfinished Temple of the Sun with its six monolithic pink stones, and it was here in 1536 that Manco Inca defeated a Spanish force. Chinchero, on the high plateau on the way back to Cusco, has Inca terraces, a colonial church built on an Inca palace, and weaving cooperatives that demonstrate natural dyeing and backstrap weaving. All three sites are covered by the Boleto Turistico, the regional tourist ticket. Many travelers prefer to stay in the valley itself for a few nights, which breaks up the trip to Machu Picchu and helps with altitude.

Day trip or stay? The day tour is efficient but busy: it involves several hours on the road, crowds at the most popular times, and stops at shops. If you have time, spend two or three nights in the valley, in Pisac, Urubamba or Ollantaytambo, and visit the sites at your own pace with a private driver or guide, adding Moray and the Maras salt pans, which many group tours skip. The valley floor is at roughly 2,800 to 3,000 meters, a few hundred meters lower than Cusco, so many travelers go straight from the airport to the valley on arrival and acclimatize there before heading back up to Cusco.

Pisac tips: the ruins are large and steep, so take a taxi to the upper entrance and walk down through the terraces to town, which takes a couple of hours and passes the tombs and the ceremonial sector. Bring water and sun protection, as there is little shade. The market sells textiles, ceramics, jewelry and souvenirs; quality varies, and gentle bargaining is normal. Ollantaytambo deserves time beyond the fortress: wander the Inca grid of streets with their water channels, and climb the free Pinkuylluna storehouses on the opposite hillside for the best view of the fortress.

Season and practicalities: from November to March, mornings are usually sunnier and showers come in the afternoon, so start early; the valley is at its greenest in this season. The Boleto Turistico is sold at the sites and in Cusco, in soles; carry cash for markets, toilets and snacks. Many tours include a buffet lunch in Urubamba at extra cost. If you are heading to Machu Picchu, ending the day in Ollantaytambo and taking the train from there the next morning is an excellent plan.