San Blas

San Blas climbs the hillside just northeast of the Plaza de Armas, and for many visitors it becomes their favorite part of Cusco. Its steep, narrow lanes and stairways are lined with whitewashed colonial houses with blue-painted doors and balconies, many built on Inca foundations, and UNESCO describes it as the arts and crafts center of Cusco. For generations, families of Cusco artisans have worked here, making religious images, carved and painted wood, ceramics, silver, textiles and the elaborate figures used in the city's festivals, and their workshops and galleries open onto the streets. The approach from the plaza is along Hatun Rumiyoc, a lane lined with the superb Inca wall of the former palace of Inca Roca, now the Archbishop's Palace and Museum of Religious Art, where the famous twelve-angled stone is set into the masonry. At the top of Cuesta de San Blas is the Plaza San Blas, a small square with a fountain and the simple adobe church of San Blas, one of the oldest parish churches in Cusco, which hides an extraordinary pulpit carved from cedar, considered a masterpiece of colonial woodcarving; the church charges a small entry fee and is covered by the separate religious circuit ticket. Around the square and along Tandapata, a pedestrian street with Inca water channels, you will find cafes, vegetarian restaurants, bakeries, bars with live music, small boutique hotels and some of the best viewpoints over the rooftops of the city. On Saturdays a craft market often fills the plaza. The neighborhood is free to explore at any time; the only price is the climb, which at around 3,400 meters will leave you breathless, and is the reason to save the higher lanes and the Mirador de San Blas viewpoint for your second or third day.

How to explore: start at the Plaza de Armas, walk up Triunfo and Hatun Rumiyoc to the twelve-angled stone, continue up the Cuesta de San Blas to the plaza and church, then wander Tandapata and the lanes above, ending at one of the viewpoints at sunset. Allow two or three hours with stops for coffee and browsing. Many workshops welcome visitors and some offer short classes; look for family-run studios rather than mass-produced souvenirs, and ask before photographing people at work. Shopping here is generally more original than the souvenir stalls around the plaza, and prices are higher accordingly.

Where to stay and eat: San Blas is one of the most charming places to stay in Cusco, with boutique hotels and guesthouses in converted colonial houses, views from the terraces and a quieter, village-like feel than the center. The trade-offs are the stairs, which are hard work with luggage and at altitude, and the fact that taxis cannot reach many of the lanes; ask your hotel to send someone to meet your taxi on arrival. The neighborhood has many of Cusco's best small cafes and vegetarian and international restaurants, and a lively but low-key nightlife.

Practical notes: the stone steps are slippery after rain, which is frequent in the afternoons from November to March, so wear shoes with grip. Walk slowly uphill and stop often. At night, stick to lit streets and use registered taxis or walk in company back from the bars. Many hotels and cafes in the area are in historic buildings, so expect small rooms, thick adobe walls and limited heating; bring layers for the cool evenings.