San Blas

Casa San Blas Boutique Hotel

★★★★★

Casa San Blas is the kind of small hotel that makes people fall for the San Blas neighborhood. It occupies a restored colonial house on a lane just off the Cuesta de San Blas, the steep street that leads up from the twelve-angled stone to the Plaza San Blas, and it keeps the character of the old building: thick walls, wooden beams and balconies, carved doors, a courtyard and patches of Inca stonework. Rooms are individually decorated with Andean textiles, handmade furniture and local art, and while some are compact, as is usual in colonial houses, they are comfortable and well heated, with good beds and modern bathrooms. The hotel's terrace is the highlight, a sunny spot with views over the red-tiled roofs of Cusco toward the cathedral and the mountains, ideal for breakfast in the morning sun or an evening drink. Breakfast is included and served in a small dining room or on the terrace, and the staff are known for being warm and helpful with tours, Machu Picchu logistics, restaurant recommendations and advice on altitude, with coca tea always available. The neighborhood around the hotel is full of cafes, galleries, workshops and restaurants, and San Blas has some of the best small places to eat in Cusco. The trade-off of the location is the climb: the lane is steep, as are all the streets in San Blas, and taxis cannot always reach the door, so the hotel helps with luggage. For many guests, the views, the quiet and the artisan atmosphere are more than worth the stairs, and the rates offer good value for the location.

Who it suits: couples and independent travelers who want character and a neighborhood feel over big-hotel facilities; repeat visitors to Cusco; and anyone who would rather walk out into a lane of workshops and cafes than onto a busy avenue. It suits mid-range budgets, with the comfort and service of a boutique hotel at a moderate price. Families with small children or travelers with limited mobility may find the steps difficult.

Location math: the hotel is a few minutes' walk downhill from the Plaza San Blas and about five to ten minutes from the Plaza de Armas, passing the twelve-angled stone on the way. The Cathedral, Qorikancha and the San Pedro Market are all walkable, and Sacsayhuaman is a steep but pleasant climb above the neighborhood. The walk back up after dinner in the center is the main effort of the day at altitude, so take it slowly.

Practical notes: rates are moderate and rise in the dry season and at festivals; book early for June and July. Ask for a room with a view or close to the terrace, and let the hotel know your arrival time so someone can meet your taxi and help with bags. Like most historic buildings in Cusco, sound can carry between rooms, and evenings are cold, so heating and extra blankets are useful in winter. In the rainy season, the stone lanes are slippery, so bring shoes with grip.