Death Valley rewards a plan. The park is huge, distances between sights are long, and the weather and the light change what is worth doing at any hour. Two days is enough to see the headline places without feeling rushed, provided you work with the sun instead of against it. This itinerary assumes you are based at Furnace Creek, though it can be adapted to Stovepipe Wells or a gateway town.
Before you go: three decisions
First, pick your season, because the plan shifts in summer; see the best-time guide for details. Second, fill the fuel tank before you enter the park and carry more water than you think you need. Third, decide whether you will drive yourself or take a tour. A guided day trip from Las Vegas covers many of the same stops in one long day, while two days on your own gives a calmer pace.
Day one, sunrise: Zabriskie Point
Be at the viewpoint before first light. The badlands go from grey to gold to pink as the sun rises, and the crowd is at its best-behaved. Bring a jacket in cool months. If you have energy, walk down into the badlands on the Golden Canyon trail, or drive to the Golden Canyon parking area and hike to Red Cathedral, about three miles round trip. Be back at the car before the day heats up.
Day one, midday: slow down
Eat a late breakfast or early lunch at Furnace Creek, visit the visitor center for maps and conditions and take a rest during the hottest hours. In cooler months you can skip the break and drive on. The visitor center and the nearby museum give context on borax mining, the Timbisha Shoshone and the park's natural history.
Day one, afternoon: the south valley
Drive south on the Badwater Road. Stop at the Devils Golf Course for a quick walk among the salt pinnacles, then continue to Badwater Basin, 282 feet below sea level, for a stroll on the salt flat. Return by Artists Drive, a one-way loop through colorful hills, and finish at Artists Palette in the late light. Back at Furnace Creek, enjoy dinner and an evening on a terrace or by the pool.
Day one, night: stars
Step away from the lights, give your eyes twenty minutes and look up. On a clear night near the new moon, the Milky Way is easy to see from the edge of the village. For deeper dark, drive to a pull-out away from the buildings.
Day two, sunrise: Dante's View or the dunes
For the grandest view, head up to Dante's View for sunrise, a 45-minute drive from Furnace Creek, and look down on the basin and across to Telescope Peak. Alternatively, drive northwest to the Mesquite Flat dunes, about 24 miles away, where low light makes sculpted shadows on the sand. Choose Dante's View if you want a panorama; choose the dunes if you want to walk and photograph.
Day two, midday: Ubehebe Crater
If time allows, continue north to Ubehebe Crater, a half-mile-wide volcanic crater, for a rim walk. It is a long drive, so treat it as the main event of the morning. If you prefer a shorter day, skip it and visit Mosaic Canyon or the Harmony Borax Works instead, both nearer to the central valley.
Day two, afternoon: the exit
Choose your route out. If you are heading to Las Vegas, you can leave via Death Valley Junction or via Beatty, stopping at Rhyolite ghost town on the way. If you are going west, Panamint Springs and Lone Pine are an hour or two away. Fill the tank at the last service station you pass.
Adjustments
With small children, shorten the hikes and keep the viewpoints, which are easy and close to the road. In summer, do everything before 10am and after 5pm, and spend the middle of the day in air conditioning. In winter, you can lengthen the walks and add a longer hike. If you have only one day, choose Zabriskie Point, Badwater and Artists Drive, and skip the north. If you have three days, add the Racetrack with a suitable vehicle and a second hike.
Booking
Book accommodation first, since rooms in the park are limited, then add tours as needed. A guided sunset and stargazing tour from Las Vegas is an excellent add-on if you are not staying in the park.