Eating and Drinking in Des Moines

Des Moines eats better than most visitors expect. The city sits in the middle of some of the most productive farmland in the world, and that shows in its markets, its menus and its pride in local ingredients. The food scene mixes Midwestern comfort classics with creative kitchens that have opened in recent years, especially in the East Village and along Court Avenue.\n\nStart with the pork tenderloin. Iowa's signature sandwich is a pork cutlet, pounded thin, breaded and fried, served on a bun that is far too small for it. It is simple, huge and satisfying, and you will find versions in diners, taverns and dedicated restaurants across the metro area. Order it with pickles and mustard, and compare a few if you have the appetite. It is the closest thing the state has to a state dish.\n\nLook for sweet corn. In late summer, Iowa sweet corn is a delight, sold at farm stands and the farmers market and served at cookouts. If your trip falls between July and September, try it buttered and salted, straight off the cob. It tastes like the thing itself, and nothing from a supermarket compares.\n\nSpend a Saturday at the farmers market. From spring to autumn, the Downtown Farmers Market fills the streets of the Court District with produce, baked goods, cheese, honey and prepared food. Arrive early, sample freely and assemble a breakfast from a handful of stalls. It is also a good way to meet local producers and learn what is in season.\n\nEat in the East Village. This neighborhood, on the slope toward the Capitol, is full of independent restaurants, bakeries and coffee shops. It is a good place for brunch, a relaxed lunch or an evening of small plates. The streets are walkable, and many places have patios in summer. Reservations are wise on weekends.\n\nTry Court Avenue. Court Avenue is the traditional entertainment strip, with brick buildings, bars and restaurants that serve everything from steaks to pizzas. It gets busy on weekend nights. Early evening is a good time for a relaxed meal before the crowds arrive.\n\nDrink local. The craft beer scene in the metro area has grown, with breweries and taprooms offering lagers, IPAs and seasonal beers. Distilleries and cocktail bars add variety. Many places feature Iowa-made products, and bartenders are glad to suggest something local. Coffee shops are plentiful, and some roast their own beans.\n\nThink beyond the center. Other neighborhoods and suburbs have their own food stories, including Italian-American spots on the south side, diverse restaurants on the north side and a growing number of international kitchens. Valley Junction in West Des Moines offers an old railroad-town main street with shops and restaurants. A drive to a neighborhood outside downtown can be rewarding.\n\nFair food. If you visit in August, the Iowa State Fair is a food adventure of its own. Pork chops on a stick, fried desserts, ice cream and endless novelties fill the grounds, and a strategy of sharing portions helps you taste more. Pace yourself, drink water and accept that some of it will be too much.\n\nPracticalities. Many restaurants close one or two days a week, and some small places close between lunch and dinner. Check hours before you go. Tipping follows American norms. Dietary needs are well served in most places, and vegetarians can find options even in meat-focused menus, though they may take a little searching. When in doubt, ask your server what is local and seasonal.\n\nSave room for sweets. Iowa is proud of its ice cream, pies and cinnamon rolls, and bakeries in the East Village and at the market turn out excellent pastries. Ask what is baked that morning. A simple eating plan. For a three-day visit, try a pork tenderloin for lunch on the first day, a market breakfast on the Saturday, a long dinner in the East Village on the second night, and a casual Court Avenue meal on the last. Add a brewery stop on an afternoon between sights, and leave room for a scoop of ice cream, which Iowans take seriously. If you are staying in a suite with a kitchen, a picnic from the market is an easy way to taste local produce and save money, and a perfect fuel stop before a day of walking.