Val Gardena and Ortisei

Val Gardena, or Gröden, is one of the most distinctive valleys in the Dolomites. It is a Ladin-speaking community with its own language, folklore and craft tradition, centered on three villages: Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva. Ortisei is the largest and the most elegant, with a pedestrian center of wood-carving shops, galleries and cafes beneath the Sassolungo and Odle peaks. The valley has been a carving center for centuries, and the local museum in Ortisei explains how devotional figures and toys from here once traveled across Europe. The valley is also a gateway to some of the finest walking in the range. Lifts leave from each village to high plateaus, and trails link to Seceda, the Alpe di Siusi and the Rosengarten (Catinaccio) group. A guided hike on this side of the Dolomites usually combines a cable-car ascent with a ridge or plateau walk, a hut lunch and a return through forests and meadows. Guides decode the landscape, pointing out the peaks by name, explaining the geology and keeping the pace gentle or ambitious as the group prefers.

Val Gardena changes character through the year. In summer, the meadows are alive with walkers, e-bikers and paragliders, and the villages fill with terrace diners. In winter, the valley is a ski hub on the Sellaronda circuit, famous for its World Cup downhill course and for the ease of linking into neighboring valleys. Spring and autumn are quieter, with lifts closed for maintenance at times, so check opening dates if you are traveling in the shoulder seasons.

If you are choosing a base, Ortisei suits those who want charm, shops and restaurants; Santa Cristina is a quieter middle ground with excellent lift access; Selva is the livelier ski village, closer to the Sella passes. All three are well connected by bus, and the valley is small enough that you can sample more than one. A visit to the village church, a browse through carving workshops and a slow evening meal of South Tyrolean and Ladin dishes round out a day outdoors.

On the trail, the best-value choices combine a lift with a loop. Easy routes on the Alpe di Siusi and Col Raiser deliver wide views for little effort, while stronger walkers can attempt ridge traverses around the Odle and the Puez-Odle nature park. Weather moves quickly, so carry layers and a rain shell, and respect the farmland by staying on paths and closing gates.

Booking a guided day takes the planning out of picking lifts, timing and routes, and is a good way to meet the valley's culture as well as its mountains. Add a stop at a hut known for dumplings or barley soup and the day is complete.