Dubai Travel Guide
Old Dubai on Foot
A step-by-step walk through the city before the skyscrapers: the wind-tower lanes of Al Fahidi, Al Shindagha, the textile souk, an abra across the Creek and the spice and gold souks of Deira.
Every visitor sees the Burj Khalifa. Fewer see the Creek, and yet this saltwater inlet is where Dubai was born, and its banks still hold the most atmospheric streets in the city. This walk links the main sights of old Dubai in a single half-day, mostly on foot and with one unforgettable boat ride. Start early in the morning, or in the late afternoon so you finish on the water at dusk.
A little history. In the nineteenth century Dubai was a small settlement of fishermen, pearl divers and traders on the Creek, ruled by the Al Maktoum family, who arrived in 1833. Its fortunes grew as a free port, attracting merchants from Iran, India and around the Gulf, many of whom settled in Bur Dubai and Deira. The pearl trade collapsed in the 1930s, and oil, discovered in the 1960s, transformed everything. The low buildings you see on this walk are the survivors of that older town, many of them carefully restored.
Stop one: Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood. Begin in Al Fahidi, near Al Fahidi metro station on the Green Line. This is a quarter of restored courtyard houses built of coral stone and gypsum, crowned with barjeel, the wind towers that channelled breezes into the rooms below before air-conditioning. Wander the narrow lanes slowly; they are shaded, quiet in the morning, and full of small museums, galleries, craft shops and cafes. Look for the coffee museum, the art spaces including XVA, and the home of the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding, which runs cultural breakfasts and lunches with Emirati hosts. On the edge of the quarter stands Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest building in Dubai, which housed the old Dubai Museum and has been closed for a long restoration; it has been due to reopen as a new museum with galleries on the city's defence and history, so check whether it is open.
Stop two: along the Creek to the textile souk. Walk north toward the water and follow the Creek west. You pass the Grand Mosque with its tall minaret, then reach the covered arcades of the Bur Dubai textile souk, with fabrics, pashminas, embroidered slippers and souvenirs. Shopkeepers will call you in; browse, bargain politely, and move on when you are ready.
Optional detour: Al Shindagha. If you have time, continue west along the Creek to Al Shindagha, the historic district at the mouth of the Creek, where the ruling family once lived. Its museum tells the story of the Creek and the city, and the restored houses along the waterfront make a fine backdrop for photographs. Allow an extra hour.
Stop three: the abra across the Creek. Return to the Bur Dubai abra station by the textile souk. Abras are small wooden boats with open decks and a central bench, and they shuttle back and forth across the Creek all day. Step aboard, sit on the edge, and pay about a dirham to the driver as you go. The crossing takes only a few minutes, but it is one of the great experiences of Dubai: dhows unloading cargo on the wharves, the call to prayer drifting over the water, and the old souks of Deira ahead of you. For a longer look at the Creek, you can hire a whole abra privately by the hour.
Stop four: the spice souk. You land at Deira Old Souk station, and the spice souk begins almost immediately: a few lanes of open sacks heaped with saffron, cardamom, dried limes, rose petals, frankincense and chillies. It is small, fragrant and fun. Traders will offer tastes and bargains; saffron quality varies widely, so buy from a stall that explains what you are getting.
Stop five: the gold souk. A few minutes' walk north brings you to the gold souk, a covered street of jewellers whose windows glitter with necklaces, bangles and elaborate bridal sets. Gold is priced by weight at the day's rate, plus a charge for workmanship; the workmanship part is where there is room to bargain. Even if you buy nothing, it is a spectacle.
Finishing the walk. From the gold souk you can take the Green Line metro from Al Ras, catch a taxi, or return by abra to the Bur Dubai side. In the evening, the restored waterfront of Al Seef has cafes and restaurants by the water, and dhow dinner cruises on the Creek pass by lit up. For lunch or dinner, the surrounding streets are full of inexpensive Indian, Pakistani and Iranian restaurants that serve some of the best food in the city.
What to buy and what to pay. The souks reward a little homework. Saffron, dried limes, cardamom and frankincense are good buys in the spice souk; pashminas and embroidered fabrics in the textile souk; and oud and attar perfumes in the small perfume shops of Deira, where you can have a scent blended to order. Prices are rarely fixed. Start by asking, offer a lower figure, and settle somewhere in between with a smile. If a trader will not move, thank them and walk on; there is always another stall.
Tips for the walk. Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees. Carry small cash for the abra, snacks and souk purchases. Avoid the early afternoon, when many shops close and the heat peaks, and Friday midday. Wear comfortable shoes, drink water and take your time; old Dubai rewards wandering. Pair the walk with the Dubai Frame, which shows you this same part of the city from above, and with the Jumeirah Mosque tour for the conversation about faith and culture that brings it all to life.