Al Fahidi, Bur Dubai (Old Dubai)

XVA Art Hotel

★★★★★

XVA Art Hotel is the hotel for travellers who want to sleep inside the history rather than look at it. It occupies a traditional courtyard house in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, the restored quarter of narrow lanes and wind towers on the Bur Dubai side of the Creek, and it combines three things in one building: a boutique hotel, the XVA Gallery, one of the established names in the region's contemporary art scene, and a courtyard cafe. The house has three wind towers and two courtyards, with whitewashed walls, palm-shaded seating, and art throughout the public spaces and rooms. There are only fifteen rooms and suites, each individually designed, many featuring work by artists associated with the gallery, in categories from compact singles to standard and superior rooms. They are simple and stylish rather than luxurious, with the thick walls and small windows of a traditional house, which keep them cool and quiet but can make them dim. The courtyard cafe serves breakfast and light meals in the shade, and the gallery is open to visitors as well as guests. In the evening, once the day visitors have gone, the Al Fahidi lanes are hushed and lantern-lit, and having them almost to yourself is the special pleasure of staying here. There is no pool, gym or spa, cars cannot drive into the pedestrian lanes, and the hotel is not suitable for anyone who needs step-free access everywhere. Fit: couples, solo travellers, art lovers and repeat visitors who value atmosphere over facilities.

Location logic: you are in the middle of the most historic part of Dubai. Within a few minutes' walk are the Al Fahidi lanes and small museums, the Bur Dubai textile souk, the Creek, the abra station for Deira's spice and gold souks, and the Al Seef promenade for dinner by the water. Al Shindagha Museum is a pleasant walk along the Creek. For Downtown and the beaches, take the metro from a nearby Green Line station or a taxi from the edge of the quarter, where cars can stop.

Room advice: with only fifteen rooms, book well ahead in the cool season. Look at the room descriptions and photos, since each is different; the superior rooms have more space, and the singles are good value for solo travellers. Rooms open onto courtyards and terraces, so expect some sound from the communal spaces, and pack light, since you may need to carry bags a short distance through the lanes. Ask about late arrivals in advance.

How it compares: Al Seef Heritage Hotel and Canopy by Hilton nearby offer more conventional comforts, larger rooms and, in Canopy's case, a pool, but neither is inside the historic quarter itself. XVA is the choice for travellers who want the house, the art and the silence of the lanes at night. Pair a few nights here with a beach hotel for the second half of a trip.