Dunedin is a city that eats and drinks well, and it does so without much fuss. Its Scottish roots, its student population, the farmland of Otago and the cold seas of the south coast all feed a food culture that is hearty, local and increasingly creative. For visitors, the pleasure lies in simple things: a fresh pie from a bakery, a flat white in a sunny cafe, a pint of beer brewed a few streets away and a plate of seafood caught that week.
Beer
Dunedin has a long brewing history, and beer is part of the city's identity. Speight's has brewed on Rattray Street since the nineteenth century, and its tour and tasting is a fun introduction to a local institution. For a modern contrast, Emerson's helped to launch the craft beer movement in New Zealand and offers a tour and a taproom with food. Plan both for a beer-lovers' day, and arrange a taxi or walk if you taste. Many bars in the centre also pour local and regional craft beers, and the student bars add energy on weeknights.
Bakeries and cafes
The bakery is a way of life in New Zealand, and Dunedin's are excellent. Look for flaky pies, sausage rolls, custard squares and cheese scones, and eat them warm if you can. The city's cafes take coffee seriously, and a flat white or long black in the Octagon or along the lanes is a daily ritual. Brunch is popular at weekends, so expect queues at the favourites. Many places in the centre close early in the evening, so plan dinner accordingly.
Southern seafood
The cold southern waters produce some of the country's best seafood. Look for Bluff oysters in season, blue cod, crayfish, mussels and whitebait, depending on the time of year. Fish and chips from a local shop is a classic, best eaten on the beach at St Clair or looking out over the harbour at Port Chalmers. Restaurants in the city serve fresh fish in more refined dishes, and the menus change with the catch.
Lamb, venison and Otago produce
Otago farms produce excellent lamb, venison and beef, and you will find them on menus from pubs to fine dining. Central Otago fruit, including cherries, apricots and berries, appears at markets and in desserts through summer. Cheese, honey and preserves from small producers are good souvenirs. If you are interested in wine, Central Otago pinot noir is world famous, and many Dunedin restaurants offer good lists.
Markets
On Saturday mornings, the Otago Farmers Market sets up at the railway station, and it is one of the best places to sample local food. Stalls sell bread, pastries, fruit and vegetables, cheese, smoked fish, coffee and ready-to-eat breakfasts, and the setting under the station's ornate roof is unforgettable. Arrive early for the best choice, and bring a bag for purchases.
Food tours
A guided food walk is one of the easiest ways to understand the city's eating scene. You will visit several local businesses, taste a range of items and hear the stories behind them. It is also a good way to find places to return to for a proper meal later in your stay. Tell the operator about any dietary needs when you book.
Practical tips
Dunedin's restaurants tend to be relaxed, and bookings are advisable for dinner on Friday and Saturday evenings, particularly during the university year. Tipping is not expected but is appreciated for good service. Vegetarian and vegan options are widely available, and many places can cater for gluten-free diets if asked. Alcohol is sold in licensed venues and supermarkets, and the legal drinking age applies.
A simple food plan
Start the day with a coffee and a pastry, then join a food walk or visit the market. For lunch, eat a pie or fish and chips at the beach. In the afternoon, take a brewery tour, and in the evening, dine on southern lamb, seafood or a hearty pub meal. If you are heading out on the peninsula for wildlife, pack a picnic, since cafes are fewer and close early. The result is a trip that tastes as good as it looks. If you are staying in a motel with a kitchen, a supermarket trip for local cheese, bread, fruit and smoked fish makes an easy picnic, and many bakeries open early enough to supply a breakfast on the way to the wildlife tours.