Humphreys Peak

The San Francisco Peaks are the remains of a huge volcano that rose above Flagstaff and collapsed or eroded into a ring of high summits. The tallest is Humphreys Peak at 12,633 feet, the highest point in Arizona, and its upper slopes carry the only alpine tundra in the state. Hiking to the top is a demanding day: the main trail starts near the Arizona Snowbowl and climbs roughly 3,300 feet over about five miles each way, passing through spruce and aspen before breaking out above tree line onto a bare, wind-swept ridge. The reward is a panorama that stretches over the Painted Desert, the volcanic fields and, on a clear day, to the Grand Canyon. For those who do not want a summit push, the peaks offer gentler trails, aspen groves and fall color that rank among the best in the Southwest.

The Humphreys Peak Trail is a serious high-altitude hike. Plan on seven to ten hours round trip, start at dawn, carry plenty of water, layers and food, and turn around if thunderstorms build, since lightning above tree line is a leading danger in summer afternoons. The trail climbs steadily through forest to a saddle, then follows a rocky ridge to the summit, where wind, cold and thin air can surprise hikers who started in warm sun.

Most people find the final stretch slow going, and altitude can bring headaches and fatigue, so acclimate in Flagstaff for a day or two beforehand. A permit is not typically needed for day hikes, but rules about staying on the trail above tree line are strict.

The tundra is the reason for those rules. The San Francisco Peaks groundsel, a small yellow flower found nowhere else, grows only in this fragile zone, and stepping off the trail can crush plants that take decades to recover. The mountains are also sacred to many Native nations, including the Hopi, Navajo, Zuni and Havasupai, and hikers are asked to be respectful.

If the full summit is more than you want, shorter options include the Kachina Trail, a gentle contour of roughly five miles through aspen and conifer forest, and the Inner Basin trail, which leads into the heart of the old volcano. Fall color from late September into early October draws crowds of leaf-peepers, and sunrise and sunset light on the aspens is spectacular.

In winter, the summit trail is a mountaineering route requiring snow experience and avalanche awareness. For travelers without the time or fitness for the summit, the Scenic Lift at Arizona Snowbowl offers a high-altitude view with far less effort, and a short walk near the base lodge can provide a taste of the aspens.

Preparation can make or break the day. Check the forecast the night before and again at the trailhead, because mountain weather changes quickly. Carry at least two liters of water, high-energy snacks, a windproof jacket, a hat, gloves and a headlamp in case you finish late. Trekking poles help with the loose rock on the upper ridge.

Start early enough to be off the summit by midday, and be ready to turn around if the weather turns, since reaching the top is optional and safety is not. Hikers new to altitude should spend a night or two in Flagstaff first and drink plenty of water.