Apple River Canyon and the Driftless

The landscape around Galena is as much a draw as the buildings. This corner of Illinois escaped the glaciers that flattened most of the Midwest, and it is called the Driftless Area for the lack of glacial deposits: steep hills, deep valleys, limestone bluffs and winding streams give it a look that surprises people expecting prairie. Apple River Canyon State Park, in the northeast of Jo Daviess County, is one of the best places to see it, with a narrow canyon cut by the Apple River, rock faces, woodland and trails for hiking. It is a modest park, and quiet compared with major state parks, which suits those who want peace, a picnic and a walk. Exact facilities and trail conditions vary, so check the state parks pages before you go. The drive from Galena is itself a pleasure, passing farms, small villages and wooded ridges on roads that curve and climb. Elsewhere in the county, Charles Mound, the highest point in Illinois, rises on private land that is open to visitors only on limited days, so confirm access before you plan to go. In autumn the hillsides turn gold and red, in spring the creeks run high and wildflowers appear, and in winter the bare rock and snow are stark and beautiful. For visitors who have spent a day on brick streets, an afternoon here resets the pace.

A scenic drive makes a good half day: leave Galena in the morning, wind through the county's back roads, stop at the canyon for a walk and a picnic, and return through a small town for coffee or pie. Combine it with a winery stop and you have covered the countryside as well as the town. The journey is relaxed, and the roads reward slow driving.

Because the park is outside the tourist core, it is also a useful option for travellers who prefer nature to museums, or for families whose children need space. It rounds out the picture of what Galena Country offers, a mix of brick, bluff and river that is hard to find elsewhere in the Midwest.

For a longer outing, consider linking several outdoor stops across the county: a morning at the canyon, a picnic lunch, and an afternoon on the bluff at Chestnut Mountain for river views. The contrast between the quiet interior valleys and the broad Mississippi is one of the great pleasures of the area, and driving between them reveals how varied the landscape is within a short distance.

Take a camera and a paper map as backup, check road conditions in winter, and pace the day so you are back in Galena for dinner. Visitors who return in a different season often say they did not recognise the place, which is the best argument for coming back.