Water puppetry is one of Vietnam’s most charming art forms, and Hanoi is the best place to see it. It began about a thousand years ago in the Red River Delta, when farmers staged shows in flooded rice fields during harvest festivals, and by the twelfth century the best troupes performed for the king. The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, at 57B Dinh Tien Hoang Street on the north-east shore of Hoan Kiem Lake, keeps the tradition alive with several shows a day. The stage is a pool of water framed by a red-roofed pavilion, and the puppeteers stand in the water hidden behind a screen, moving the carved and lacquered fig-wood puppets with long bamboo rods and strings below the surface. Musicians at the side play traditional instruments and sing the story. Each show opens with Teu, a cheeky host, and then runs through short scenes of village life: herding ducks, fishing, planting rice, racing boats, dragons breathing fire and phoenixes dancing, plus folk tales with a moral. It is short, funny and visual, so language is no barrier, which makes it perfect for families and first-time visitors alike.
How it works: the theatre runs several performances every day, from the afternoon into the evening, and each show lasts under an hour. Tickets are sold at the box office in the theatre lobby and through travel agents; prices are modest, with better seats near the front costing a little more. Evening shows sell out in busy months, so buy your ticket earlier in the day or the day before. An extra fee is usually charged for using a camera or video.
What to expect: the auditorium is small and steeply raked, so most seats have a good view, but the front rows are closest to the action and may catch the odd splash. Narration and songs are in Vietnamese, though the theatre hands out a short programme, and the scenes are easy to follow. The live orchestra, with drums, bamboo flutes, a monochord and gongs, is half the pleasure. Shows are fast-paced and playful.
Making the most of it: combine the show with a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and the red Huc Bridge to Ngoc Son Temple, just across the road, before or after. An early evening performance leaves time for dinner in the Old Quarter. If you take young children, the earlier shows suit them best.
What to expect
The experience
A short, lively performance of traditional water puppetry with a live orchestra and singers, staged in a pool of water in a small theatre by Hoan Kiem Lake.
Best time
An early evening show after a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake, booked earlier the same day or the day before.
How long
Each performance lasts under an hour.
Tips
Buy tickets ahead in busy months, sit near the front for the best view, and add a stroll to Ngoc Son Temple across the road.
Quick picks
- Best for
- First-time visitors who want a taste of traditional Vietnamese culture without a language barrier.
- Families
- One of the best things to do in Hanoi with children: short, funny and full of splashing dragons.
- Couples
- A charming start to an evening, followed by dinner in the Old Quarter.
- Pair with
- Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son Temple across the road, then the Vespa food tour.
- Time needed
- About an hour including arrival.
Good questions
Where is the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre?+
It stands at 57B Dinh Tien Hoang Street, on the north-east shore of Hoan Kiem Lake in the Old Quarter. Ngoc Son Temple is just across the road.
How long is the water puppet show?+
Each show lasts under an hour, made up of a series of short scenes. That makes it easy to fit before dinner.
Do I need to book water puppet tickets in advance?+
Evening shows can sell out in busy months, so buy at the box office earlier in the day or the day before. Afternoon shows are usually easier.
Is the show in English?+
The singing and narration are in Vietnamese, but the scenes are visual and easy to follow. A short printed programme helps explain each act.
What is water puppetry?+
It is a folk art from the Red River Delta, about a thousand years old, in which puppeteers stand in water behind a screen and move the puppets on rods below the surface. It began in flooded rice fields at harvest festivals.