Dragon's Back Trail

Most visitors are amazed to learn that about forty percent of Hong Kong is protected country park, and the Dragon's Back is the easiest and most beautiful way to discover it. The trail runs along a ridge in Shek O Country Park in the southeast corner of Hong Kong Island, and its name comes from the way the path rises and falls over a series of small humps, like the vertebrae of a dragon. The views are superb almost the whole way: on one side the sweep of Shek O beach, the village and the headland, with the South China Sea stretching away; on the other, Tai Tam Bay and its reservoirs; and on clear days, outlying islands floating on the horizon. Paragliders sometimes launch from the ridge, hanging above the sea. It is part of the Hong Kong Trail, the long-distance path that crosses the island, and its final section descends through woodland to Big Wave Bay, a small beach popular with surfers, with cafes and a village where you can rinse off, eat and enjoy a well-earned drink. The full walk from the To Tei Wan bus stop on Shek O Road to Big Wave Bay is about 8 kilometers, rated moderate, and takes around three to four hours at an easy pace including stops, though the ridge section itself is short and the most strenuous part is the initial climb. There are no facilities on the trail, so bring water. Getting there is part of its appeal: from Shau Kei Wan MTR station, the number 9 bus winds up the hill to the To Tei Wan stop in about fifteen minutes. The hike costs nothing beyond bus fares, and few cities offer a walk this good half an hour from their financial district.

Timing is the key to enjoying it. The ridge is exposed with little shade, so in summer start early in the morning or in the late afternoon and carry plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat; heatstroke is a real risk from May to September. The best hiking months are October to March, when the air is cooler and drier and the views are clearer. Weekends are busy, with queues for the bus at Shau Kei Wan and a steady stream of hikers on the ridge; go on a weekday if you can. Do not hike during typhoon signals, thunderstorm or heavy rain warnings, as the trail becomes slippery and dangerous, and check the weather before you go; Hong Kong's weather can change quickly in summer.

The route is well signposted. From the To Tei Wan bus stop, the path climbs steadily through scrub to the ridge, where you turn right and follow the crest over its humps to the highest point, Shek O Peak, at a little under three hundred meters. From the ridge, the trail continues along the hillside and then descends through shady woodland, joining a road for a while before the final steps down to Big Wave Bay. For a shorter walk, some hikers drop down to Shek O village instead, where the beach and the village restaurants are good for lunch. Wear proper shoes with grip, especially after rain; sections are rocky and uneven, though there is nothing technical or exposed in a scary way, and fit children can manage it.

Big Wave Bay is the reward: a small sandy beach with a surf school, board rental, beach shops and cafes, plus a set of prehistoric rock carvings nearby. Shek O, a short taxi or bus ride away, has a longer beach and a relaxed village known for its casual Thai and seafood restaurants. From Big Wave Bay, take the number 9 bus or a red minibus back to Shau Kei Wan MTR, or share a taxi. If you love the hike, Hong Kong has many more: the trail up Lion Rock in Kowloon, the MacLehose Trail in Sai Kung and Lantau Peak at sunrise are the next steps, and each shows a side of the city most visitors never imagine.