The Star Ferry

The Star Ferry is the soul of Victoria Harbour and the cheapest great experience in Hong Kong. Its double-decked, green-and-white boats, each named after a star (Morning Star, Celestial Star, Twinkling Star and so on), have shuttled between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island since 1888, long before the tunnels and the MTR, and they still carry commuters and visitors across the water every few minutes for a fare of a few dollars. The main route runs from the pier at the tip of Tsim Sha Tsui, beside the clock tower, to Central Pier 7 on the island, a crossing of under ten minutes that gives the classic view of the skyline rising behind the waterfront and the green flank of Victoria Peak above it. A second route links Tsim Sha Tsui with Wan Chai, beside the Convention and Exhibition Centre. The boats themselves are part of the pleasure: varnished wooden benches with reversible backs, so you can always face forward, sailors in navy uniforms throwing the ropes, and open sides that let the harbour breeze in. The upper deck costs a dollar or so more than the lower and gives the higher, wider view; the lower deck puts you closer to the water and the spray. There is no need to book anything: tap an Octopus card or pay at the turnstile and walk on. For visitors, the ferry is less transport than ritual, and most people ride it more than once: by day for the busy working harbour, at sunset for the light on the towers, and after dark when the skyline is fully lit. The company also runs a longer harbour tour, but the regular crossing is the one everyone remembers.

The best crossing is from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island, because the island's skyline is the more dramatic of the two and it grows in front of you as you approach. Sit on the right-hand side of the upper deck heading to Central for the widest view of the towers, the convention centre and the Peak behind. The return trip gives you the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, the clock tower, the Cultural Centre and the new museums of West Kowloon to the left. Dusk is magic: the light changes from gold to blue while the office towers switch on, and the harbour is still busy with barges, junks and pilot boats. After dark, the reflections on the water make it one of the most beautiful short journeys anywhere. Rush hours are crowded with commuters but move quickly; if you want a calmer ride with a seat by the rail, go mid-morning or mid-evening.

The ferry has been through hard times: tunnels, the MTR and the pandemic cut passenger numbers, and the company has sought fare increases to stay afloat; the government approved modest rises on both routes that take effect in January 2027. Fares remain small change by any standard, and children, seniors and disabled passengers pay concession rates. A four-day tourist pass exists for frequent riders. Pay by Octopus card or the exact cash; the turnstiles accept coins and small notes, and there are no reserved seats. No eating or drinking is allowed on board or on the piers, and large luggage is restricted. Services stop when strong typhoon signals are raised, and a heavy fog or rainstorm can slow them. Be aware that the Wan Chai route uses the lower deck only for bicycles, so passengers ride upstairs.

Build the ferry into your days rather than treating it as a single sight. Use it to reach Central for the Peak Tram (a short walk or bus from Pier 7), to return to Kowloon for an evening on the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade, or to connect the West Kowloon museums with the island. On the Kowloon side, the pier sits beside the old clock tower of the Kowloon-Canton Railway terminus, Harbour City mall and the start of the waterfront promenade; on the Central side, the piers are next to the Hong Kong Observation Wheel and the ferry piers for the outlying islands, so it is easy to continue to Cheung Chau or Lamma. A ride costs less than a bottle of water and gives you the harbour that made Hong Kong.